Anthony Fernandes: ‘Push the boundaries of your culinary skills’
Expert chef talks about his top tips in areas, including presentation, spices, dinner parties, experimentation, mistakes to avoid and the importance of enjoying the process
By Asjad NazirOct 26, 2023
BEING surrounded by generations of chefs meant that it was always going to be inevitable for Anthony Fernandes to pursue a culinary path.
Shaped by family tradition, an innate curiosity about flavours and a constant desire to create unforgettable food-led experiences, he has become one of India’s leading chefs and fine dining experts. Having worked at the biggest institutions, including internationally, he has created a positive impact with his skills and inspired other chefs.
Eastern Eye decided to get a cooking masterclass with the expert chef with top tips in areas, including presentation, spices, dinner parties, experimentation, mistakes to avoid and the importance of enjoying the process.
How much more have people become connected to cooking since lockdown?
The lockdown significantly deepened people’s connection to cooking. From those who had never handled a knife or sautéed onions, the rise of platforms like YouTube has empowered them to evolve into adept home cooks and rekindled treasured recipes passed down from grandmothers and mothers, resulting in a resurgence of familial culinary traditions.
What top cookery tip would you give beginners?
For beginners, the advice I would offer is to focus on mastering the basics about spices and their own regional cuisine. Also, don’t be afraid to experiment and make mistakes – cooking is a creative journey. Start with simple recipes and gradually build your confidence. Most importantly, have patience and enjoy the process. Cooking is not only the end result, but also about the joy of preparing and sharing a delicious meal.
What advice would you like to give the more advanced cooks?
My advice would be to continue pushing the boundaries of your culinary skills. Embrace new techniques, ingredients, and cuisines to keep your passion alive. Experiment with fusion cooking, combining diverse flavours to create innovative dishes. Additionally, refine your presentation and plating techniques to elevate your creations visually. Remember that even experienced cooks can learn, so stay open to learning and exploring new trends. Your culinary journey is a continuous evolution.
How important is presentation?
Presentation plays a crucial role in the culinary experience, as it engages multiple senses and enhances the overall enjoyment of a dish. A beautifully presented meal stimulates appetite, but also reflects the care and creativity put into its preparation. Presentation can elevate your culinary creations from mere sustenance to a feast for the eyes and the palate.
Can you give a presentation tip?
Embrace the ‘rule of three’ when arranging elements on a plate. This involves grouping food items in threes, to create balance and visual harmony. For example, place the main protein, starch, and vegetable in a triangular formation. This technique adds symmetry and elegance to the plate while ensuring each component gets its moment in the spotlight. Also, vibrant colours, garnishes, edible flowers, and sauces can make a dish visually appealing and add a finishing touch. Don’t overcrowd the plate, allow the elements to shine individually.
What are the common mistakes people make while cooking?
Many cooking mistakes stem from haste and oversight. One significant error is not properly prepping ingredients before starting. This leads to a rushed cooking process and uneven results. Also, not allowing meat to rest after cooking can cause a loss of juiciness and tenderness.
What healthy cooking tips can you give?
Prioritise fresh and whole ingredients. Opt for unprocessed foods like fruits, vegetables, lean proteins, and whole grains. These ingredients are rich in nutrients and minimise the consumption of additives and preservatives. Incorporate a variety of colourful produce to ensure a wide range of vitamins and minerals. Baking, steaming, grilling and sautéing instead of deep frying is recommended.
How important is it to learn about spices?
Spices can transform a simple meal into a complex and delicious experience. Understanding how different spices complement each other and knowing when and how to use them can elevate your cooking to new heights. Spices add depth, aroma, and character to your dishes, allowing you to explore various cuisines and create a diverse range of flavours. Mastering spices enables you to tailor dishes, experiment with new taste profiles, and bring excitement to a kitchen.
What is the secret of preparing a menu for a dinner party?
The key is finding a harmonious balance between diverse flavours, guest preferences, and your own culinary skills. Consider dietary restrictions, offer a mix of appetisers, mains, sides, and desserts, and incorporate fresh, seasonal ingredients. Stick to familiar recipes that you can execute confidently, and if desired, create a cohesive theme. Opt for dishes that can be prepared in advance to ensure a stressfree experience.
Is there a secret ingredient that you love to cook with?
I love to cook with fresh herbs like basil, cilantro, rosemary, and thyme; they bring a burst of vibrant flavours to dishes. They not only enhance taste but also add visual appeal and a delightful aroma. Their versatility allows for creative experimentation in various cuisines. Fresh herbs can elevate simple dishes and provide a finishing touch that takes a recipe from good to exceptional.
What inspires you as a chef?
I find my inspiration from my family’s culinary legacy, my cultural roots, and the diverse experiences I’ve had throughout my career. Traditional recipes and techniques passed down through generations have instilled a deep respect for authentic flavours. Exploring different cuisines during my travels and collaborating with fellow chefs have fuelled my creativity and pushed me to continuously evolve as a culinary artist.
Tell us more about that?
The joy of crafting dishes that delight and surprise diners, coupled with my passion for mentoring and sharing knowledge, drives me to push boundaries and seek inspiration in every ingredient and culinary challenge.
What are your future plans?
I want to leave an indelible mark on the culinary world and gain worldwide recognition for Indian cuisine. By pushing the boundaries of creativity and crafting culinary masterpieces, I aim to inspire fellow chefs and enthusiasts. Through blending authentic flavours with contemporary presentation, I seek to showcase the true potential of Indian cuisine to a global audience.
WHEN Rishi Sunak became an MP, he swore his oath on a copy of the Bhagvad Gita, but few people – including perhaps Britain’s first Asian prime minister – will have been aware of the efforts of a Shropshire-born civil servant in that little moment of history.
Charles Wilkins (1749-1836) was an employee of the East India Company and an avid Sanskrit lover. He arrived in India and went on to study the language under scholars in then Benares (now Varanasi, which India’s prime minister Narendra Modi represents) and produced what is believed to be the first English translation of the holy Hindu text.
It made the Gita accessible not only to the British, but also millions of Indians, including Mahatma Gandhi, and years later, Sunak.
This is just one of the anecdotes Manu Pillai uncovers in his new book, Gods, Guns and Missionaries: The Making of the Modern Hindu Identity, published earlier this year.
Pillai traces the transformation of the religion over the past four centuries – from the arrival of early Europeans in the Indian subcontinent to British rulers and the rise of Indian leaders during the freedom movement – and examines the impact of those influences.
Manu Pillai
“Most of us look at Hindu identity today through the prism of Hindu-Muslim relations, because in the present, that is what became,” Pillai told Eastern Eye. “But to me, it seemed like a lot of modern Hinduism was actually influenced by colonialism and Christianity.”
Not so much in the way that missionaries converted millions of people, Pillai explained, as they “never had physical success in terms of numbers”, but “they had a lot of intellectual success in terms of placing these moulds and frameworks of thinking, which we took in order to articulate a modern avatar for Hinduism. So, I thought that story deserved to be told.”
This is his fifth book, which Pillai began in 2019, following a dissertation on Hindu nationalism at King’s College London. At the outset, he clarified the book is not about his academic thesis, rather it examines the impact of the early Portuguese, the Italians and other Europeans, then the East India Company, the British and finally, Indian reformers and politicians prior to and after independence.
Pillai said, “Hinduism is not a Western-style religion. It’s a cultural framework in which there’s multiple diversities. Think of it like a draw cabinet; it is the overall frame that is Hinduism. But each door has its own individual identity, as well.”
And , the cover of his new book
Pillai charts the influence of hardline Portuguese missionaries whose influence is evident in Goa even today, while in the south, an Italian priest, Roberto de Nobili, adopted the local Hindu ways in order to spread the teachings of Christianity.
The book also shows how British colonial rulers were initially reluctant to the push from missionaries in the UK to proselytise communities in the subcontinent, before eventually changing their minds. Reformers such as Serfoji and Raja Ram Mohan Roy adopted a more modern approach, followed by Dayananda Saraswati, Bal Gangadhar Tilak, Jotiba Phule and Veer Savarkar, whose interpretation of Hinduism came at a time of India’s freedom struggle.
This intertwining of religion and politics is not new, though, Pillai said. History has shown how rulers patronised places of worship and this continues in contemporary times, too.
The writer described how Jawaharlal Nehru (independent India’s first prime minister) and “the Nehruvian elites made a conscious effort to keep religion out, but bubbling just beneath that first level, (but) religion was always present in politics. Caste was always present in politics.”
Pillai said, “It was Nehru’s charisma and electoral success that allowed him to keep it at bay or in check. But it was never absent. By Indira Gandhi’s time, she started playing the religious card as needed, whenever she felt her party could benefit from it.”
He added, “The difference is religion has now come much more centrestage and openly acknowledged.”
Pillai also noted how economic clout and technology have both played a part in the recent assertion of religious identity, the most obvious is the patronage of places of worship, while carrying out rituals under the guidance of a priest over a video link is now the norm.
In the book, he writes about how the spread of the English language in the subcontinent meant exposure to new ideas, thus empowering Indians to not only challenge authority, but also learn about the world outside their country.
“The British employ Indians who can speak English. They pay those Indians. Those Indians are getting cash revenue. They are no longer dependent just on their farms (to earn their living). They use that to patronise their community. They build temples,” Pillai said.
“So, ironically, the wealth created by service in the British East India Company ends up in the flowering of Hinduism. The railways, which the British laid to move their troops around, also enables pilgrim traffic to temples. “All of these things come together – technology, politics and economics.”
More recently, Pillai said Hindu resurgence “isn’t purely due to political dynamics”. His view is that with rising disposable income, “you have time to think about identity, and now you have money to patronise things.”
He cites the example of Kerala, where he is from, explain how remittances from the Gulf countries led to a boom in old family temples being renovated. “There is something culturally coded in organising a big puja, or making donations to a temple is seen as an a c h i e v e m e n t , weighing yourself in grain and donating to a temple.
“So that kind of religious identity also boomed with economic boom. It’s not as an economic boom creates some rational paradise. On the contrary, an economic boom can actually result in a greater flowering of religiosity.
“Partly because of that, post liberalisation (of India in the 1990s), there’s been a new middle class that’s emerged, there’s also now disposable income. People have the wherewithal to now think beyond roti, kapda, makaan (food, clothes and shelter), and to think about who are we as a people? And the answer to that question lies in religion, culture, heritage.”
India and south Asia’s vast diversity dictate the way Hinduism is practised, across not just the subcontinent, but also across the world, where the diaspora communities are settled. Consequently, this shapes the evolution of Hindu identity.
Pillai said the next challenge for Hinduism will be maintaining that inner diversity, “because we live in times where there’s so much emphasis on that homogenised identity, on one reading of that label, of what it means to be a Hindu.
“It takes away from how much pluralism there is within the faith itself. The richness of Indian culture, in general, has been the fact that all religions that have entered India have become pluralized, even if it’s Islam.
“Islam in Kerala is not the same as Islam in Bhopal. When the north Indian Muslims under the Muslim League, as I mention in the book, went to Kashmir in the 1940s hoping to woo the Kashmiri Muslims, they were horrified. They thought that Kashmiris, with their saint worship, and all of that were not even proper Muslims. They said, ‘we’ll have to teach them Islam first, before making them Muslims, because they couldn’t recognise that version of Islam. “Everything in India is hybridised, and in many ways, that has been our strength, these hybrid identities have continued over so many generations. “What would be a major challenge is this tendency towards homogenising… towards feeling there has to be only one version of Hinduism and one interpretation of things.
“Even our epics have so many retellings. In Kerala there is an oral kind of Ramayana, in which Shurpanakha, when she propositions Rama and says, ‘I want to marry you’. And he says, ‘No, I’m already married. You go to Lakshmana.’ Shurpanakha turns around and says, ‘That’s okay; the Sharia says you can marry twice, more than one woman.
“So this is a Ramayana in which Shurpanakha quotes the Sharia, because it’s a Muslim Ramayana.
“That is the kind of country we come from. And I think losing that, where everything has become standardised, and that’s a global phenomenon, something we’re seeing around the world. That is a tragedy. That would be the bigger challenge.
“We need more people telling these stories about our inner plural, pluralism and diversity – which is not to devalue that framework. The framework has its own value. I’m not saying that Hinduism should somehow be only about its pluralism, but at the same time, it has to be a fine balance between maintaining that inner richness, maintaining all the threads in the tapestry without painting the whole tapestry one single shade.”
By clicking the 'Subscribe’, you agree to receive our newsletter, marketing communications and industry
partners/sponsors sharing promotional product information via email and print communication from Garavi Gujarat
Publications Ltd and subsidiaries. You have the right to withdraw your consent at any time by clicking the
unsubscribe link in our emails. We will use your email address to personalize our communications and send you
relevant offers. Your data will be stored up to 30 days after unsubscribing.
Contact us at data@amg.biz to see how we manage and store your data.