Modern elegance meets history in Valaya’s 'Muraqqa' collection

CELEBRATED designer J J Valaya believes it is his duty to preserve the beauty of the past and present it in a new form as an "excavator of the past." Valaya showcased modernity, royalty, and elegance in his latest collection Muraqqa, which he presented on the fourth day of the Hyundai FDCI India Couture Week.

The new clothing line by The House of Valaya drew inspiration from three historically significant cities: Istanbul in Turkey, Isfahan in Iran, and Delhi. "I think it's my duty... As an excavator of the past. I go back in time to find all the beauty and bring it forward, make it relevant for today and then present it in an all-new manner. Otherwise, it will be lost," Valaya told PTI on the sidelines of the ongoing fashion gala.

Celebrated designer J J Valaya says it's his duty to preserve the beauty of the bygone era and present it in a new avatar as an "excavator of the past".

Valaya showcased modernity, royalty and elegance in his latest collection Muraqqa, which he presented on the fourth day of the Hyundai FDCI India Couture Week here.

The new clothing line by his label The House of Valaya drew inspiration from three cities of historical importance: Istanbul in Turkey, Iran's Isfahan and Delhi.

"I think it's my duty... As an excavator of the past. I go back in time to find all the beauty and bring it forward, make it relevant for today and then present it in an all new manner. Otherwise, it will be lost," Valaya told PTI on the sidelines of the ongoing fashion gala.

Through the festive collection of Muraqqa, which was ruled by custom woven silks and lush velvets, the Delhi-based designer stayed true to his USP: luxury.

"Everything that is rich and luxurious. We are a luxury brand. This is the festive season, this is a festive couture. So, it's all about rich velvets, silk and everything that you can think of which is truly luxury," he said.

The colour palette ranged from green, beige, brown to maroon and even had shades of golden and black. The menswear featured evening jackets, sherwanis, Nehru jackets, and bandhgala jackets, whereas the women's range comprised lehengas, sarees, anarkalis, and suits.

Some of the male models wore turbans to complement their attire and nose rings completed the looks of the female models. Bold applique designs, polka dots, and geometrical figures with embroidery were also spotted in the ensembles.

For Valaya, one of the most popular Indian couturiers in the international fashion circuit known for maximalism, fashion is style.

"There is something I always say. Fads and gimmicks are not fashion. Something that is timeless and endures... which stands the test of time. I would identify that as fashion. Fashion equals style."

In his latest collection, the Istanbul theme draws from Ottoman intricacies and art deco lines, while Isfahan reinterprets Persian carpets and miniature paintings with a contemporary twist. Delhi celebrates Mughal inlays intertwined with flora and fauna motifs.

He picked "beautiful nuances" from the three cities and put them into the new modern collection.

Valaya summed up the collection as a blend of "royalty, spirit and art".

From the initial idea to its final form, the ace couturier detailed his process about bringing designs to life.

"You have that thought and then you research. I believe a lot in research. In fact, I spend weeks and weeks collecting the data. I even try to travel to those places and then put together mood boards.

"Then we have a brainstorming session then the first sketch is made followed by the first traces then the development of the print, weaving of textiles, etc. Everything comes together in one cohesive spirit to create those beautiful collections," he added.

Asked who he considers the most stylish personality, the designer said while it was tough to single out one, American fashion icon Iris Apfel, who died in March at the age of 102, was someone with a great sense of style.

"If we go back in time, not very far back, Iris Apfel (is one name that comes to my mind). She was an American diva, she passed away after over 100 years of living... The way she put it all together was just fantastic."

Valaya is already working on his next collection.

"I have been thoroughly enjoying what I have done in all these 33 years... Let's just say I am blessed." (PTI)