From factory floors in India to the warehouses of Cambodia, garment workers for global brands say the collapse in demand triggered by the coronavirus is being used as a cover to break their unions.
The crippling effect of the pandemic has seen orders worth billions of dollars cancelled across manufacturing hubs in China, Bangladesh, India, Cambodia and Myanmar.
That has left hundreds of thousands out of work in some of Asia's poorest countries.
But workers allege the financial turmoil has also provided an opportunity for bosses to target troublesome shop floors where unions have pressed for higher wages and better conditions.
In southern India's Karnataka state -- home to 20 percent of India's massive garment manufacturing sector -- union leader Padma has sat every day cross-legged outside her factory Euro Clothing Company II to protest its closure since early June.
She was among the entire 1,200-strong workforce let go -- 900 of whom were with a union.
"I have sweated here for the past 10 years for 348 rupees ($4.60) a day," said the 49-year-old, who was responsible for checking trousers, jackets and T-shirts bound for Swedish clothing giant H&M.
The workshop's parent company is Gokaldas, Karnataka's oldest manufacturer, a firm that runs more than 20 factories.
But Padma's workplace was the only Gokaldas plant with a union, she said.
"They wanted to get rid of the union for a long time, and now they're using COVID-19 as an excuse," Padma told AFP, alleging the workers were "illegally laid off" without notice.
Gautam Mody, general-secretary of the New Trade Union Initiative, which represents hundreds of workers' groups across India, said the firm was "union-busting under the pretext of COVID".
Mody told AFP the shuttered facility was "the sole factory where the majority of workers are union members".
Gokaldas did not reply to requests for comment but H&M confirmed the closure of the plant.
"We are in close dialogue with both local and global trade unions as well as the supplier to help them resolve the conflict peacefully," H&M told AFP.
The high street clothing giant also buys garments from four other Gokaldas factories, according to the New Trade Union Initiative.
- Fast fashion, cheap wages -
Asia's textile factories have provided jobs for millions of people as well as vital foreign currency for many poorer nations, but the pandemic has gutted the sector.
In Bangladesh alone, more than 100,000 workers have been left jobless.
About half are involved with unions, according to Rafiqul Islam Sujon, president of the Bangladesh Garments and Shilpo Sramik Federation, a rights group.
Many factories have long resented the work of unions and have discouraged workers from collectivising while harassing or firing the most vocal leaders, campaigners say.
But the economic crunch has offered "an opening for this tactic on a wide scale", said Jamie Davis of the Solidarity Center, a workers' advocacy organisation affiliated with American unions federation AFL-CIO.
Major brands are now being urged to use their financial muscle to protect the most vulnerable in their supply chains.
The big names "must make it clear that they will end the business relationship (with a factory) if the violations continue", said Scott Nova of labour watchdog the Worker Rights Consortium.
"It is illegal to dismiss workers because of their union affiliation or to close a factory because it is unionised," he said.
"Such anti-retaliation laws exist in most countries, including Cambodia, Myanmar and India -- though they are, unfortunately, often not enforced."
- Impassioned letter -
In Myanmar, where the nascent garment sector was seen before the pandemic as a beacon of prosperity, 298 workers were fired in May at the Rui Ning factory, which produces clothes for the likes of Spanish fast-fashion brand Zara.
Desperate to be reinstated, unionised workers wrote an impassioned letter to Amancio Ortega, founder of the Inditex fashion group that owns Zara.
"Surely a man of such riches would not need to profit from the global pandemic by smashing our unions," it said.
Ortega is the sixth-richest man in the world with a $62.8 billion fortune, according to Forbes.
Inditex said it was aware of the labour disputes and cited its code of conduct, which "expressly forbids discrimination against workers' representatives".
It is a position shared in public by other multibillion-dollar clothing giants aware of the PR damage that allegations of worker exploitation can inflict.
In the worst cases, workers voicing opposition to lay-offs are facing jail.
Cambodian union representative Soy Sros took to Facebook in April to protest the dismissal of dozens of workers from a Superl factory on the outskirts of Phnom Penh.
The Hong Kong-based company makes leather handbags for brands including Michael Kors, Tory Burch and Kate Spade.
Forty-eight hours later, she was behind bars and charged with incitement. Sros was released 55 days later, but the charges remain.
Another Cambodian workers' leader, Pav Sina, said more than 2,000 labourers with his union had seen their contracts terminated.
"In the past, factories couldn't do this," he said. "But COVID has given them the opportunity."
THE seven-year prison sentence handed to a 15-year-old boy convicted of the manslaughter of 80-year-old Bhim Sen Kohli is to be reviewed under the UK’s Unduly Lenient Sentence (ULS) scheme.
The boy, who cannot be named due to legal restrictions, was found guilty of carrying out an "unprovoked" attack on Kohli as he walked his dog in a park in Leicester, eastern England, in September last year.
The review follows a detailed assessment by Solicitor General Lucy Rigby KC MP to determine whether the case met the threshold for referral.
“The Solicitor General, Lucy Rigby KC MP, was appalled by this violent, cowardly attack on an innocent man. She wishes to express her deepest sympathies to Bhim Kohli’s friends and family at this difficult time,” said a spokesperson for the Attorney General’s Office.
“After a detailed review of the case, the Solicitor General concluded the sentence of the 15-year-old could be referred to the Court of Appeal. The court will now determine whether the sentence should be increased.”
A 13-year-old girl, who was also convicted of manslaughter for her role in the attack, avoided a custodial sentence. She had filmed the assault while laughing and encouraging the boy, the court heard.
At a sentencing hearing on June 5 at Leicester Crown Court, Justice Mark Turner described the attack as “wicked”. He said he was legally bound to consider the defendants’ ages.
The boy, referred to as D1, was convicted of physically assaulting Kohli, while the girl, referred to as D2, received a three-year youth rehabilitation order with a six-month curfew.
Addressing the girl in court, Justice Turner said that a custodial sentence would likely cause “more harm than good”. It is understood that her sentence will not be referred for review as it did not meet the legal threshold.
During the trial, the court was told that Kohli had been racially abused and repeatedly punched and kicked. His daughter, Susan Kohli, found him lying on the ground after the attack.
“They chose to attack a defenceless pensioner and for that I cannot give them any of my sympathy,” she said after the sentencing.
Kelly Matthews, senior district crown prosecutor at the Crown Prosecution Service, called the incident “tragic” and said it had deeply affected the Leicester community and beyond.
“Kohli set out to walk his dog in his local park, as he did every day, but lost his life in what followed,” she said.
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Tibetan spiritual leader the Dalai Lama attends a prayer meet held for his long life at the Dalai Lama temple in the northern hill town of Dharamshala, India, July 5, 2025. REUTERS/Anushree Fadnavis
THE Dalai Lama said on Saturday (5) he hopes to live until he is more than 130 years old, two decades longer than his previous prediction, following his assurance to followers that he would reincarnate as the spiritual head of the faith upon his death.
The Nobel Peace Prize winner was speaking during a ceremony organised by his followers to offer prayers for his long life, ahead of his 90th birthday on Sunday (6), and as China insists it will choose his successor. The Dalai Lama told Reuters in December he might live to 110.
"I have been able to serve the Buddhadharma (the teachings of Buddhism) and the beings of Tibet so far quite well," he said between prayers, clearing his throat now and then.
"And still, I hope to live over 130 years," he said, sparking applause and cheers among his followers.
The 14th Dalai Lama, already longest-lived head of Tibetan Buddhism, spent about 90 minutes at the prayers in his temple. The ceremony was attended by thousands of followers from around the world who gathered in the northern Indian hill town of Dharamshala, where he has lived since fleeing Tibet in 1959 in the wake of a failed uprising against Chinese rule.
"We have lost our country and we live in exile in India, but I have been able to benefit beings quite a lot. So, living here in Dharamshala, I intend to serve beings and the dharma as much as I can," he said in Tibetan, which was translated simultaneously in English and other languages.
China, keen to consolidate its control over Tibet, views the Dalai Lama as a separatist. Beijing insists its leaders would have to approve his successor, in a legacy from imperial times.
The Dalai Lama has previously said that he would reincarnate in the "free world" outside China and this week told his followers that the sole authority to recognise his reincarnation rests with his non-profit institution, the Gaden Phodrang Trust.
The Dalai Lama is a charismatic figure whose following extends well beyond the millions of Tibetan Buddhists living around the world. He won the 1989 peace prize for what the Nobel committee said was keeping alive the Tibetan cause and seeking genuine autonomy to protect and preserve the region's unique culture, religion and national identity without pressing for independence.
At the prayers on Saturday, he sat on a throne before a large statue of the Buddha, with dozens of monks seated in front of him. Marigold garlands hung from pillars as his followers and journalists crowded around the main temple area.
Oracles and other figures, shaking in trance, arrived to pay their obeisance to their guru. Monks struck cymbals and played ornate long trumpets in honour of the Dalai Lama and others.
The Dalai Lama said he prays daily to benefit all sentient beings and feels he has the blessings of Tibet's patron deity, Avalokitesvara.
"Looking at the many prophecies, I feel I have the blessings of Avalokitesvara," he said. "I have done my best so far. At the least, I hope to still live for 30 or 40 years more."
His birthday celebrations on Sunday will be attended by senior Indian ministers as well as diplomats from the US, along with thousands of his devotees.
(Reuters)
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Daytime temperatures meeting or exceeding set thresholds of 25°C
Met Office forecasts rising temperatures by mid-July
Possible third heatwave after record-breaking June
High pressure system likely to bring hot air from the Atlantic
Yellow rain warning and flood alerts issued in parts of Scotland and Cumbria
Possible heatwave to return by mid-July
The UK could experience its third heatwave in a month by mid-July, the Met Office has said. Forecasters expect rising heat and humidity during the second weekend of July, following two weekends of unusually warm weather in late June.
June was officially the hottest on record in England, and the return of high temperatures could mean another heatwave for parts of the country. However, the Met Office cautioned that it is too early to confirm how hot conditions will get.
Heatwave thresholds and forecast temperatures
A heatwave in the UK is defined as three consecutive days with daytime temperatures meeting or exceeding set thresholds of 25°C in the west and north, and 28°C in London and surrounding counties.
According to Met Office meteorologist Zoe Hutin, “Whilst it is difficult this far ahead to determine exactly how hot things could get next week and weekend, there is the potential that some parts of the country could reach heatwave criteria.”
Early forecasts show that temperatures in the south east may rise to the high 20s on 9 July and could reach the low 30s on 10 July.
High pressure building over the south
The likely heat is being driven by a high-pressure system developing from the west, which is expected to extend across southern parts of the UK. This system may draw in warm air from the Atlantic and the Azores, increasing the chances of another period of hot, settled weather.
“Most likely it will be the south and east that see prolonged heat and thus could have another heatwave,” Ms Hutin said. “But it is too soon to say exactly how high temperatures could get.”
Cooler and wetter spell before the heat
In the meantime, cooler weather is expected across the UK this weekend and early next week. Cloudy skies and rain will affect western areas in particular, with temperatures forecast to drop slightly.
The south east is expected to reach 25°C on Saturday (6 July), followed by 24°C on Sunday and 23°C on Monday. Drizzly outbreaks are likely on Saturday, with showers expected on Sunday, especially in the east.
Rain warnings and flood alerts
A yellow weather warning for rain remains in place until Saturday afternoon across parts of Scotland, including Argyll and Bute, the south Highlands, Mull and Skye. Up to 60mm of rain is expected, with more than 100mm possible in mountainous areas.
The Environment Agency has issued flood alerts in Cumbria, including for rivers such as the Duddon, Crake and Mill Beck, following heavy rainfall on Friday. Meanwhile, the Scottish Environment Protection Agency (SEPA) has issued six flood alerts for areas including Argyll and Bute, Ayrshire and Arran, Easter Ross and Great Glen, Skye and Lochaber, west central Scotland and Wester Ross.
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Two men have been jailed for defrauding investors of £1.5 million through a fake crypto investment scheme. (Representational image: iStock)
TWO people who duped investors of £1.5 million by selling fake investments in crypto have been jailed for 12 years, the Financial Conduct Authority (FCA) said.
Raymondip Bedi, of Bromley, and Patrick Mavanga, of Peckham, conned at least 65 people by cold-calling them between February 2017 and June 2019. They operated companies including CCX Capital and Astaria Group LLP.
Bedi was sentenced on July 4 by judge Griffiths sitting at Southwark Crown Court to five years and four months, while Mavanga was sentenced to six years and six months.
Judge Griffiths said Bedi and Mavanga “were both leading players in a conspiracy whereby the victims of the fraud were persuaded to invest in crypto currency consultancy” and “you conspired to drive a coach and horses through the regulatory system”, according to the FCA.
It said anyone scammed by Bedi and Mavanga and who had not yet heard from the FCA should call 0800 111 6768 or email operationhickory@fca.org.uk.
Bedi on May 2, 2023, pleaded guilty to four charges – conspiracy to defraud, conspiracy to breach the general prohibition under the Financial Services and Markets Act 2000 and money laundering offences at an earlier hearing.
Mavanga pleaded guilty to three charges – conspiracy to defraud, conspiracy to breach the general prohibition under the Financial Services and Markets Act 2000 and possession of false identification documents with an improper intention – on June 9, 2023. He was also convicted of perverting the course of justice on November 7, 2024, for the deletion of phone call recordings following the arrest of Bedi in March 2019.
GREATER MANCHESTER POLICE is now investigating more than 1,000 child sexual abuse suspects, following years of public criticism and institutional failings in tackling child sexual exploitation.
A new report by His Majesty’s Inspectorate of Constabulary and Fire & Rescue Services (HMICFRS) has revealed the force has made “significant improvements” in dealing with group-based sexual abuse and related crimes.
According to the 76-page report, GMP is handling ongoing investigations involving 714 identified victims and 1,099 suspects. These are described as “multi-victim, multi-offender” cases, reflecting the complex and organised nature of many of the crimes under investigation.
Michelle Skeer, HM Inspector of Constabulary, said that since 2019, GMP has taken steps to improve how it handles both historic and ongoing abuse cases. “It is clear that the force has, for many years, been trying to provide a better service to those who have or may have experienced sexual exploitation,” she said. “But for some, trust and confidence in the police had been lost.”
The report praised the leadership of chief constable Sir Stephen Watson and his team, noting a cultural shift within the force. Senior officers have made child protection a top priority, personally engaging with staff to reinforce its importance. “Investigating child sexual exploitation is now considered everyone’s business,” the report stated.
GMP is the only police force in the UK with a dedicated Child Sexual Exploitation Major Investigation Team (CSE MIT), formed in 2021.
The unit has around 100 staff and a ring-fenced budget. It applies the same specialist tactics used for tackling serious organised crime, which has already resulted in 42 convictions and over 430 years of prison sentences for offenders.
According to the report, the delay in sharing crucial data from local councils, particularly Manchester City Council, which was criticised for submitting evidence so heavily redacted that some pages contained only a few words.
These delays have hindered investigations such as Operations Green Jacket and Bernese—cases linked to historic abuse in South Manchester, including the death of 15-year-old Victoria Agoglia in 2003.
Manchester City Council said legal restrictions around personal data sharing led to redactions, but it has since introduced a new evidence-sharing process with police, allowing investigators remote access to unredacted documents.
Sir Stephen acknowledged past failures and issued a renewed apology. “I am sorry that when you needed us, we were not there for you,” he said. “To those who are responsible for these repugnant crimes – as is now very apparent – we will pursue you relentlessly.”
A report by Baroness Louise Casey previously found a significant over-representation of Asian men among child sexual abuse suspects in Greater Manchester. While this remains a sensitive issue, Sir Stephen noted it was a “legitimate question” that could be addressed in a future national inquiry.
Greater Manchester mayor Andy Burnham, who commissioned the review, said he was “confident” the system is now in a stronger place. “Never again will any child here be labelled or dismissed when they come forward to report concerns,” he said. Burnham added that the reforms had sparked a “widespread culture change” across police, councils, and care services.
A separate Ofsted report backed these findings, acknowledging "much good practice" but calling for continued vigilance, especially in how agencies respond to missing children and those at risk of exploitation as they approach adulthood.
The Crown Prosecution Service has been approached for a comment.