Gayathri Kallukaran is a Junior Journalist with Eastern Eye. She has a Master’s degree in Journalism and Mass Communication from St. Paul’s College, Bengaluru, and brings over five years of experience in content creation, including two years in digital journalism. She covers stories across culture, lifestyle, travel, health, and technology, with a creative yet fact-driven approach to reporting. Known for her sensitivity towards human interest narratives, Gayathri’s storytelling often aims to inform, inspire, and empower. Her journey began as a layout designer and reporter for her college’s daily newsletter, where she also contributed short films and editorial features. Since then, she has worked with platforms like FWD Media, Pepper Content, and Petrons.com, where several of her interviews and features have gained spotlight recognition. Fluent in English, Malayalam, Tamil, and Hindi, she writes in English and Malayalam, continuing to explore inclusive, people-focused storytelling in the digital space.
In celebration of International Women's Day 2025, what better way to honour independence and self-discovery than by embarking on a solo adventure? Travelling alone as a woman can be an empowering and transformative experience, offering a perfect balance of serenity, adventure, and personal growth. Whether you're craving the tranquillity of nature or the thrill of an urban adventure, we've compiled a list of the top 10 destinations where women can travel solo safely while exploring new cultures, landscapes, and themselves.
1. Iceland: The land of fire and ice
Icelandic HighlandsiStocks
Iceland continues to be a favourite among solo female travellers due to its exceptional safety, welcoming locals, and awe-inspiring landscapes. Known for its geothermal hot springs, towering waterfalls, and stunning northern lights, Iceland offers adventure and serenity in equal measure. Women can hike the glaciers, explore volcanic landscapes, or simply relax in the warm waters of the Blue Lagoon.
The country's excellent public transportation and well-marked hiking trails make it easy to navigate alone, offering a unique experience for nature enthusiasts.
2. New Zealand: The ultimate outdoor playground
Hooker valley trail, New ZealandiStock
For women who seek both adventure and solitude, New Zealand is the ideal destination. This Pacific paradise offers a wide range of experiences, from scenic hiking trails to thrilling activities like bungee jumping and skydiving. The country is renowned for its friendly locals and robust infrastructure, making it easy to travel solo.
The breathtaking landscapes of both the North and South Islands, such as Fiordland National Park and the serene beaches of Abel Tasman, provide plenty of opportunities for reflection and peaceful escapes.
3. Japan: A perfect blend of tradition and modernity
Tokyo streetiStock
Japan's seamless combination of ancient tradition and cutting-edge technology makes it an intriguing destination for solo female travellers. With one of the world’s lowest crime rates, Japan is an exceptionally safe country. Tokyo offers a bustling city experience, while Kyoto’s temples and traditional tea houses offer tranquillity.
Japan’s efficient public transportation system, particularly its high-speed trains, allows solo adventurers to explore diverse regions, from the futuristic streets of Tokyo to the peaceful mountains of Hakone.
4. Canada: The call of the wild
Moraine lake and mountains in BanffiStock
Canada’s vast wilderness and welcoming cities make it a top destination for solo female adventurers. For those seeking serenity, Banff National Park in Alberta offers endless opportunities for hiking, kayaking, and wildlife viewing in some of the most beautiful landscapes on Earth.
Urban travellers can explore the vibrant cities of Vancouver and Toronto, known for their multiculturalism, art scenes, and safety. Whether you're hiking through the Rockies or enjoying the cultural offerings of Canada’s cities, the country is an ideal choice for a solo getaway.
5. Portugal: Coastal charm and cultural riches
Panoramic view of Lisbon cityistock
Portugal’s beautiful coastal landscapes, historic cities, and warm climate make it a perfect destination for solo female travellers. Lisbon and Porto are filled with cobbled streets, stunning architecture, and cosy cafes where women can enjoy exploring at their own pace.
For those seeking adventure, the Algarve region offers dramatic cliffs, sandy beaches, and water sports. Portugal’s laid-back vibe and hospitable locals create a welcoming environment for solo travellers looking for both adventure and relaxation.
6. Scotland: Majestic landscapes and history
Munro Bagging in the CairngormsiStock
Scotland is ideal for women seeking serenity in nature and a dose of rich history. The Highlands offer incredible opportunities for hiking, camping, and discovering ancient castles. Edinburgh’s historic streets are perfect for solo strolls, offering cosy cafes, museums, and bookshops.
One of the safest countries in the world, Scotland provides a sense of peace and solitude, especially for those exploring its rugged coastline, serene lochs, and misty hills.
7. Bali, Indonesia: A haven for wellness and adventure
Tegallalang rice field, BaliiStock
Bali is a popular destination among solo female travellers due to its unique blend of wellness retreats and adventure activities. Known for its lush jungles, pristine beaches, and spiritual atmosphere, Bali offers endless opportunities for relaxation and self-care.
For adventurous travellers, Bali’s surfing, snorkelling, and volcano hiking promise excitement. The island is home to countless yoga retreats and meditation centres, making it the perfect place for women seeking inner peace.
8. Sweden: Scandinavian serenity
stockholm, SwedeniStock
Sweden offers a safe and tranquil setting for solo female travellers, especially those seeking serenity in nature. The country’s vast forests, lakes, and coastlines provide the perfect backdrop for hiking, kayaking, and camping.
For women who prefer city exploration, Stockholm offers a vibrant cultural scene, world-class museums, and cosy cafes. Sweden’s commitment to sustainability and gender equality makes it an appealing destination for women travelling alone.
9. Australia: A continent of contrasts
Katherine Gorges , AustraliaiStock
Australia is a dream destination for solo travellers, offering everything from bustling cities to vast natural wonders. For adventurers, the Great Barrier Reef and the Outback provide unforgettable experiences, while cities like Sydney and Melbourne are ideal for cultural exploration.
Australia’s friendly and laid-back culture makes it easy for solo travellers to connect with locals, whether they’re exploring the beaches, wildlife reserves, or urban landscapes.
10. Ireland: The Emerald Isle’s warm welcome
Irish Atlantic coastiStock
Ireland’s friendly locals and stunning scenery make it a top pick for solo female travellers. From the rugged Cliffs of Moher to the charming streets of Dublin, Ireland offers a perfect blend of natural beauty and cultural experiences.
Solo travellers can explore ancient castles, hike through lush green landscapes, or enjoy the warmth of a traditional Irish pub. Ireland’s reputation for hospitality ensures that women travelling alone will feel welcomed and safe.
The Shri Kutch Satsang Swaminarayan Mandir in East London marked two major milestones this month with a week-long festival that drew more than 8,000 devotees and community members.
The celebrations, held from 10 to 17 August at Swaminarayan Sports World in Wanstead, coincided with the 38th Patotsav of the temple and the 23rd Patotsav of the installation of Shri Ghanshyam Maharaj. The event, named Manthan Mahotsav 2025, was held under the patronage of Pujya Acharya Shri Kaushalendra Prasadji Maharaj and S.G. Mahant Swami Shri Dharmanandandasji.
Dignitaries including Deputy Mahant Shri Bhagwatjivandasji Swami, Pujya Kothari Parshad Shri Jadavji Bhagat, Harrow Mayor Anjana Patel, councillors from Newham, Redbridge, Epping and Harrow, Professor Kishan Devani BEM, and members of the Shri Swaminarayan Gadi Parivar UK attended the occasion.
A highlight of the festival was the recitation of the ‘Vasudev Mahatmya Katha’ by saints of Bhuj Mandir. Revered within the Swaminarayan tradition, the text was being recited in the UK for the first time. The Katha began on 11 August and concluded with the Mahabhishek on the final day, inspiring devotees with messages of faith, unity, and service.
India’s Independence Day was also observed on 15 August with a flag-hoisting ceremony, the singing of the national anthem, and prasad distribution.
Alongside spiritual activities, the festival celebrated culture, education, and youth engagement. Students from the temple’s Gujarati school were honoured for outstanding results, including GCSE achievements in Gujarati. The youth wing organised a games night for children and teenagers, while a cultural evening featured traditional dances, plays, and devotional performances.
Temple leaders and saints reflected on its 38-year journey, emphasising values of love, respect, unity, and collective growth. Inspired by the symbolism of Samudra Manthan and this year’s Mahakumbh, the Manthan Mahotsav reinforced the Swaminarayan ethos of contemplation, harmony, and shared devotion.
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Born in 1864 in Visakhapatnam, Annie began medical studies at Madras Medical College, one of the few institutions in India then open to women.
DR ANNIE WARDLAW JAGANNADHAM was the first Indian woman to gain a medical degree at a British university and have her name added to the UK medical register in 1890.
Her story has been revisited by the General Medical Council (GMC) as part of South Asian Heritage Month. Tista Chakravarty-Gannon, from the GMC Outreach team, explored her life with support from GMC archivist Courtney Brucato.
Chakravarty-Gannon wrote in a blog, “In my role at the GMC much of my work is focused on supporting international doctors, and on anti-racism. It’s work that lies close to my heart. My father was born in India but emigrated to the UK in the 1960s.”
She added, “If you wind the clock back even further, it must have been even harder to make that journey and assimilate into a not particularly diverse society and profession. Unsurprisingly, in the late 19th century doctors were almost all male and white. It was going to take some remarkable women to turn that tide. I’ve been lucky enough to spend time talking to our archivist, Courtney Brucato, about one such woman – Annie Jagannadham.”
Early years Born in 1864 in Visakhapatnam, Annie was the daughter of Christian missionary parents. At 20, she began medical studies at Madras Medical College, one of the few institutions in India then open to women.
She studied practical midwifery under Dr Arthur Mudge Branfoot, who had spoken about the “folly and inadvisability of educating women as doctors.”
Barriers and opportunities Indian medical qualifications were not fully recognised under the colonial system. For women, studying abroad was often the only route to legitimacy.
In 1888, Annie received a scholarship from the Countess of Dufferin Fund to study at the Edinburgh Medical School for Women. The Fund, set up under Queen Victoria, aimed to improve women’s health in India through scholarships and support for health infrastructure.
She studied for the conjoint medical and surgical qualification of the three Scottish Colleges, known as the “Scottish Triple” or “TQ”.
Academic success Annie graduated with special credit, worked as a demonstrator of anatomy at Surgeons’ Hall, and achieved top marks in several examinations. On 2 May 1890, she was granted registration with the General Medical Council.
She then worked as a house officer at the Edinburgh Hospital for Women and Children under Dr Sophia Jex-Blake, who described her as of “fine and finished character.” Annie gained experience in obstetrics and gynaecology and was made a Licentiate of the Royal College of Physicians of Edinburgh, the Royal College of Surgeons of Edinburgh, and the Faculty of Physicians and Surgeons of Glasgow.
Return to India In 1892, Annie returned to India as a House Surgeon at Cama Hospital in Bombay (now Mumbai), under Dr Edith Pechey, one of the Edinburgh Seven who had campaigned for women’s right to study medicine.
Early death Two years later, Annie contracted tuberculosis. She returned to her family in Visakhapatnam and died in 1894 at the age of 30.
The Chronicle of the London Missionary Society published an obituary, noting, “it is to be feared that the early death, which those who knew her now mourn so deeply, was largely due to her self-denying labours on behalf of the sufferers in the hospital.” It added, “though the course [of her life] has been short, it has been useful and bright,” praising her independence, modesty, and “unostentatious service.”
Legacy On the 1891 medical register, Annie was one of 129 female doctors compared to more than 29,000 men. This year, for the first time, there are more female than male doctors practising in the UK, and more ethnic minority doctors than white doctors.
Chakravarty-Gannon wrote, “It’s important to remember that to be listed on the medical register, Annie was required to step outside the Indian system, navigate another culture away from her friends and family, and prove herself all over again – because her original education wasn’t recognised in a colonial hierarchy.”
“Dr Jagannadham may not be a household name, but her courage and determination helped carve out a path that many generations have since followed. Her story is a powerful reminder of how far we’ve come – and how important it is to keep moving forward.”
South Asian Heritage Month runs from 18 July to 17 August each year, commemorating and celebrating South Asian cultures, histories, and communities.
The community came together to honour two of its stalwarts, Dr Vinodbhai Kapashi OBE and his wife, Sudhaben Kapashi, at an emotional Thanks-Giving Party organised by their three daughters.
Attended by family, friends, dignitaries, and community leaders, the gathering was a living tribute to a couple whose lives have been devoted to public service, cultural enrichment, literature, Jainism, and the unifying spirit of community.
In an emotionally charged address, Dr Kapashi expressed his heartfelt wish to witness the community’s affection during his lifetime. “I just wanted to see, while alive, how people are connected to me and what they think of me,” he said, before evoking the poignant song, “Kal khel mein hum ho na ho, gardish mein taare rahenge sada” — a reminder that while individuals may pass on, their values and contributions continue to shine for generations.
Sudhaben, visibly moved by the overwhelming warmth, reflected on their lifelong journey and the promise of the future: “Hum laye hain tufan se kishti nikal ke… Now we can say that Jain religion will flourish more and more, seeing the association of the young generation.”
Throughout the morning, tributes poured in from prominent community leaders, including Nemubhai Chandaria OBE, Jaysukhbhai Mehta BEM, Dr Mehool Sanghrajka MBE, Rumitbhai Shah, and Nirajbhai Sutaria. A video message from India by Dr Kumarpal Desai added to the heartfelt honours. Speakers described Dr Kapashi as “a real scholar, a true gentleman, and an encyclopedia of Jainism and Sanatan Dharma,” commending his tireless work to promote and preserve Jain values not only within the Jain community but for the benefit of all.
Adding a deeply personal dimension to the day, the couple’s daughters- Raxita, Punny, and Neha, along with their five grandchildren, shared treasured memories that revealed the humility and humanity behind the couple’s public achievements. Family members Alka Shah and Purvi Shah also offered moving recollections.
The programme blended touching narration with photographs, theme songs & dance, along with lovingly prepared collage by the Ladies Wing, casting a golden glow over the celebration.
Lord Meghnad Desai, who has died, aged 85, was one of the most erudite members of the House of Lords. But he carried his scholarship lightly and with an engaging sense of humour.
The Times noted he turned 85 on 10 July, only 19 days before his death on 29 July.
He was known as a distinguished economist who had taught at the London School of Economics, where he remained an emeritus professor after his retirement, but his knowledge of Bollywood films was also impressive.
He admitted whistling songs from Guru Dutt movies in the corridors of the House of Lords.
His favourite song, he once said, when launching his autobiography, Rebellious Lord, was Mera Joota Hai Japani from the 1955 Raj Kapoor starrer, Shree 420.
That’s because deep down despite travelling and lecturing all over the world, he felt Indian, and the line that summed him up was, “phir bhi dil hai Hindustani”.
He had many books on economics and politics to his credit, among them Marx’s Revenge: The Resurgence of Capitalism and the Death of Statist Socialism, The Rediscovery of India, and The Poverty of Political Economy: How Economics Abandoned the Poor.
Desai (sixth from left) with Jo Johnson, Sajid Javid, Rami Ranger, David Cameron, Lady Kishwar Desai, guest statue sculptor Philip Jackson and Priti Patel
But he was also the author of Nehru's Hero: Dilip Kumar in the Life of India. He had a wide range of interests and also wrote a crime thriller, Dead on Time.
He was born in Baroda and had his early education in India, but though he had an enjoyable enough spell in America, he chose to settle in the UK because he felt his spiritual home was the LSE.
“I have been to more than 50 countries to give lectures,” he said. “In America, I could have earned much more money, but being at the LSE was much more fun. Because I’m interested in many things I can talk to people about what they are interested in. Basically, I like reading and writing. I’ve been to three countries I consider my own – US, UK and India. I think I belong to all three in some form or another. Everybody has been nice to me. I have had a lovely life.”
On one occasion he said his greatest achievement was possibly raising money for the statue of Mahatma Gandhi that went up in 2015 in Parliament Square, facing the Palace of Westminster and not far from that of Winston Churchill.
He said: “I would say that Gandhi is relevant not just to Indians or British Indians – he is relevant to everybody. Gandhi is universal and still relevant as an alternative way of launching a struggle in a century that has continued to have violence. It’s astonishing what he achieved. Indians born here (in the UK) may know of Gandhi from their parents but they would only know a stylised bit of Gandhi. If, as a result of this statue, they are inspired to explore Gandhi more thoroughly and read about his life and look at what he did, that will be great. I hope lots and lots of schools come to look at the Gandhi statue and people carry on teaching a bit more about Gandhi because he is a fascinating, very complex character. You can criticise him quite a lot and there are a lot of critics there but on balance he is the most unique person of the 20th century.
Desai during the Mahatma Gandhi anniversary in Parliament Square on October 2, 2019
“Attenborough’s movie is a remarkable classic movie – the movie that more than anything else introduced Gandhi to the world. More people have learnt about Gandhi from the movie, especially people outside India, than anything else. Attenborough’s movie made Gandhi a much more known person round the world for a new generation. I don’t think any Indian would have been allowed to make a movie like that given the restrictions that the Indian government places on film making. You see they only want hagiographies.”
In Rebellious Lord, his autobiography published in 2020, he explained why he did not always do well in exams in India: “One of my problems was that I could not give the standard answer which was what got you the marks. I deviated from the straight and narrow and showed off my reading or tried some jokes. None of this helps you in an Indian examination where you have to display memory and rote learning.”
He said that “in early January 2004, I was at my desk in the House of Lords when I got a call. The call was from Delhi, asking me if I would accept the Pravasi Bharatiya Samman, awarded to an expatriate Indian. I said, of course, I would. They must have thought that being left-wing, I might publicly refuse to accept an honour from a BJP-led coalition government, but any government elected by the Indian people was acceptable to me.
“So it was that within a couple of days, I was off to Delhi to receive my award. When I met Prime Minister Atal Bihari Vajpayee, I was in for a pleasant surprise. After he gave me the award, I asked him, ‘Why did you choose me? I have criticised you so much.’ As in any conversation with that marvellous man, there was no immediate response. Then he smiled and said, ‘You criticise everybody.’ That reply made me happy, as I was particular about my non-partial standpoint.”
One of the abiding friendships he made while at Berkeley in America was with fellow economist Amartya Sen, who was later to win the Nobel Prize.
“I was 24 and he was 31,” recalled Desai. “I had, of course, heard his name while I was a student in Bombay. People talked about this young Indian whom his Cambridge teachers – Joan Robinson and Nicholas Kaldor, authors whose books we read – were praising very highly. Amartya was visiting Berkeley in my second year. I went to hear him at a seminar he was giving in the economics department. The original venue was too small for all the people who had come to listen so it was moved to a much larger hall on the campus. I was thrilled when I heard him speak. The topic was about peasant behaviour in developing countries. It was technical but also full of insights into the political economy of the problem. Dale Jorgenson played the part of the acerbic critic and Amartya stood up to him easily. We met up afterwards and then many times during the year he was there. Amartya was there with (his then wife) Nabaneeta, who had a literary background and became a famous Bengali author subsequently. We got on very well and have done so ever since.
“Amartya is a great person. I guess he is my longest acquaintance among Indian economists, because I met Amartya in Berkeley in 1964. He’s a nice man, a very nice man. I think I think he’s slightly cross with me because I’m much softer on (Narendra) Modi than he is. But then you know, I’m me. And he is he. But I don’t think those things are serious for either.”
Desai had three children with his first wife, Gail Wilson, an LSE colleague whom he married in 1970. He met his second wife, Kishwar Ahluwalia, a literary editor, in India when he was working on the Dilip Kumar biography, The couple married in London in 2004.
Desai with Amartya Sen (right)
Desai has talked of his love of Bollywood films.
“I began to be taken to see movies at the age of four,” he said. “I could never understand people who try to intellectualise films. All the critics who wrote about films intellectually hated Hindi films. And I loved them. To this day I love ordinary, commercial Hindi films. I like Guru Dutt because he made commercial films which had content.
“The thing about Guru Dutt is he is thought to be one of those amazing art film directors because most people have only seen Kaagaz Ke Phool. I myself did not like it very much. I still don’t. I think it is a badly made film, very, very confused.
“When he started Guru Dutt had a slight racy reputation. When he appeared in Aar Paar as a hero, the Times of India wrote a very angry review that he was bringing values down, singing love songs in a dingy garage with a heroine. There was Guru Dutt putting forward as hero a car repair man who had been a criminal. People were shocked that the hero was no longer a noble hero.
“He made Mrs & Mrs 55 which is a fantastic film. He actually discovered that Madhubala had a flair for comedy.
“In Mrs & Mrs 55 – I remember seeing it at the National Film Theatre in London –there is a little episode where Kumkum, who plays the hero’s sister-in-law, tells this girl Madhubala that, yes her husband beats her up but that’s not bad, you know, husband do beat up wives – you could see the frisson of disappointment in all the trendies who had come to see the great Guru Dutt. They hadn’t realised he was very much a conservative.
“Then, he made Pyaasa – and Pyaasa just hit me like a ton of bricks. It was basically Devdas, made beautifully, written by Abrar Alvi, music by S D Burman, that redeemed his reputation as a serious film maker.
“Then Chaudhvin Ka Chand is another absolutely fantastic film. It is one of the greatest ‘Muslim socials’ ever, something an entire Muslim family could see.
“Sahib Bibi Aur Ghulam is another great film – wow! What a beautiful, beautiful film, made with great understanding of Bengali society. He trained with Uday Shankar, the dancer, in Calcutta. He married Geeta Roy who became Geeta Dutt. He was a man of great sensitivity.
“I was at Ramnarain Ruia College in Matuna, studying BA economics. I can tell you Aar Paar in 1954 made an impact absolutely. Once you have experienced life, you become a bit cynical and you can distance yourself whereas, when you are young, films have an immediate impact on your sexual and ethical consciousness. I am a fan of all Hindi films of the 1940s and 1950s. I am an Indian until the 1950s and then later I came to England and eventually became a ‘Brit’.
“One day I will write a story about the cinema houses I frequented in Bombay: Arora at King’s Circle; Chitra and Broadway near Dadar; and Surya and Bharat Mata near Parel. I still believe, not because I was young then, that that was the golden age of Hindi cinema.”
Desai with wife Kishwar
Desai has made many speeches in the House of Lords, which he joined in 1991, the first Asian man to be given a peerage in contemporary times. He was then a member of the Labour party.
In his maiden speech on 19 June 1991, he spoke of the decline of British manufacturing: “I well recall that as a child I thought that it was axiomatic that British manufacturing was the best. Of course, I learned the lesson under somewhat advantageous circumstances for British manufacturers, for in those days Japanese or German manufacturers were synonyms for shoddy goods. I never thought then that I should rise so many years later on my first occasion in this House to speak on the manufacturing industry in this country.”
He switched to education: “I was surprised when I first heard many years ago before I touched the shores of this country that there is widespread here a kind of contempt for education, a glorification of the untaught genius—someone who cannot read a book but who can innovate. If that was ever true, that time is past. Innovation is no longer the privilege of the single, lonely person. It is a corporate activity which requires sustained investment in high-powered scientific and technical knowledge.
“We must raise the general level of education and knowledge in this country and continue to invest in the education and training of everyone from age five onwards. We must not drop people at 16 or 19. Let us make sure that there is no conflict between basic research and applied research. Basic research is extremely important to innovation. There is no false dichotomy between basic science and applied science. Unless we invest much more in education—primary, secondary and tertiary—and in research and development, we shall not be able to have the sustained foundation that we require for manufacturing.”
Last year he spoke in the Lords about the Palestinian problem: “The Israel- Palestine problem, or the Israel-Hamas problem, did not start in October 2023; it started in November 1917, and we still have it. Some here may remember Arthur Koestler, who was a communist and then became an ex-communist and was one of the few people who worked on a kibbutz in the 1920s. He said that: ‘One nation solemnly promised to a second nation the country of a third.’
“That was very much the message. Before Palestine had fallen from the Ottoman Empire, it was signed over to welcome Jews from all over Europe and America to come and make a nation.
“It is a fact—I have been reading lots of books about this—that at no stage did we say that the Palestinians had any claim on the territory where they had been living for several centuries. That is the dilemma: two communities of very ancient origin can claim, truthfully and simultaneously, that it is their country and no one else’s. It has taken 100 years to prove who is right, and neither group is. We have to solve this problem because for a long time, not just since October 2023, there has been a lot of killing and damage done to both communities, carried out with a passion that is quite surprising. Obviously, being an atheist, I blame religion for this. The children of Abraham have quarrelled with each other now for about 2,000 years. After all, anti-Semitism was not invented recently; it was invented by the Christians, and the rest we know.
Desai said, “Everybody has been nice to me. I have had a lovely life.”
“We need to think about how to stop the Israel-Palestine war right now, as soon as possible, and then about how to rehouse the refugees scattered throughout Syria, Lebanon, Iraq and all those places, as well as people who are being thrown out of Gaza, the West Bank and everywhere else.”
His voice will be missed not only in the Lords but the wider British Asian community where he was a familiar figure at book launches and political and cultural functions.
Desai said he has never faced racism: “Everybody has been nice to me. I have had a lovely life.”
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Tony Jayawardena as Winston Churchill and Michael Sheen as Nye Bevan in Nye at the National Theatre
FOR Eastern Eye readers, there is a choice of two plays at the National Theatre – the return of Tim Price’s Nye, on the founding of the NHS, or Shaan Sahota’s debut with The Estate, a rumbustious Punjabi affair about an aspirational Sikh politician whose two sisters demand an equal share of their late father’s inheritance.
Maybe the answer is to try and see both.
On the way to catch Nye in the Olivier Theatre, the thought occurred to me that if there is one country in the world that really needs a National Health Service where people will be treated “based on their clinical need and not on their ability to pay”, it is India. My younger brother, who came with me, told me a horror story of a wife who couldn’t get her husband’s body from a Kolkata hospital unless she paid cash up front. And I recall one of my maternal uncles, who was covered by a generous Indian Oil Corporation insurance, was admitted with a relatively simple leg ailment, only to be pushed into intensive care and have various tests done at vast expense. Alas, he didn’t survive the treatment. Most private doctors demand cash for obvious reasons. India does have some of the best doctors and hospitals in the world, but it is the poor who require something like the NHS in the UK.
Jayawardena as Dr Dain and Sheen
Nye is an utterly brilliant play which tells us of the battles Aneurin (“Nye”) Bevan fought with both Tory and Labour politicians, the opposition leader Winston Churchill (he lost the 1945 general election) and the doctors themselves in establishing the NHS on 5 July 1948.
It is a stirring moment when Nye (Michael Sheen) declares: “Join me and take the most civilised step any country has ever taken and together we will build the greatest health service the world has ever taken.”
He does add: “We shall never have all we need. Expectation will always exceed capacity…..the service must always be changing, growing and improving; it must always appear imperfect.”
Humphrey Ker and Adeel Akhtar in The Estate
I would see the play, directed by Rufus Norris, just for the clash between Nye and Churchill, played superbly once again by the excellent Tony Jayewardene, who doubles up as Dr Dain.
For a British Asian actor to pay Churchill of all people is, I think, a watershed moment. “My dear fellow, have a cigar and a brandy,” the great man might well say to Jayewardene if he were somehow to slip into the audience one night.
Incidentally, Jayewardene told me: “My parents were both born and raised in Sri Lanka. They got married in 1970 when my father was 26 and my mother was 19. My father is a doctor and emigrated here in 1970 to do his higher qualifications to become a registrar and then a consultant. By that time my brother and I were both born but the civil war in Sri Lanka had also started so my parents made the decision to raise us here, especially as the war was affecting education in Sri Lanka. We lived most of my life in north London where my father still lives in the family home. My mother passed away in 2016.”
It has become fashionable for politicians these days to say that the NHS is broken. The return of Nye couldn’t be more timely since resident doctors (previously called junior doctors) threatened to go on strike for five days in pursuit of a 28.9 per cent pay claim. And the health secretary Wes Streeting has condemned the NHS for its alleged “racist” treatment of pregnant ethnic minority women. It is easy for people to forget what Britain was like the NHS.
Appointed minister for health and housing by Clement Attlee (Stephanie Jacob), the new Labour prime minister, Nye hears of harrowing stories from no fewer than 20 patients.
Sharon Small as Jennie Lee in Nye
They range from, “help us, minister, my baby has TB, but they forgot to put the legs of her cot in tins of oil to stop the cockroaches climbing up. A cockroach has got into my baby’s cot, and now my baby is deaf,” to “I broke my wrist, and the doctor can repair it but I can’t afford the anaesthetic for the operation”, “There’s no cancer specialist in my town so I have to travel five hours for an appointment”,
“The almoner says I have to pay two shillings for my radium, but I don’t have that money; if I don’t pay she’s going to stop my treatment”, and “Our GP looks after 18,000 patients. How are we meant to get an appointment?”
Nye’s heroic story is told in flashback as he lies dying at the Royal Free, an NHS hospital in North London, in 1960.
By his side is his wife, Jennie Lee (Sharon Small). There are references to Nye’s time in Delhi and sipping champagne with Nehru.
Nye’s final words are delivered as a small boy to his father, David Bevan (Rhodri Meilir), a coal miner who died of “black lung”: “Dad. Did I…Did I look after everyone?”
A message put up on screen at the end of the play says: “Within 10 years of the NHS being launched infant mortality fell by 50 per cent. Since its founding, life expectancy has increased by 12 years.”
Meanwhile, The Estate is on in the newly refurbished Dorfman Theatre where it is Sahota’s good fortune to have the accomplished Adeel Akhtar in the lead role of Angad Singh. One half of the play deals with the parliamentary estate where Angad (educated Harrow and New College, Oxford), the shadow environment secretary, is a rising star. It has faint touches of Yes Minister, especially in Angad’s dealings with the chief whip, Ralph (Humphrey Kerr), as the British Asian politician decides to run for party leader. There are echoes, too, of David Cameron’s alleged (and unsubstantiated) initiation ceremony with a pig’s head. Ralph, with his great height, also plays it a little like John Cleese in Fawlty Towers.
The other half of the play is about what happens when Angad’s traditional Sikh father – a baggage handler turned dodgy property dealer – dies leaving his entire estate to his son, cutting out his daughters, Gyan (Thusitha Jayasundera) and Malicka (Shelley Conn). The two women attempt to derail their brother’s leadership bid when Angad decides ultimately not to share the inheritance equally.
Akhtar, Thusitha Jayasundera and Shelley Conn in The Estate
Asked by his wife Sangeeta (Dinita Gohill), “What would your dad say?”, Angad’s justification for reneging on his initial promise to share the money equally with his sisters is, “Dad would say, if I didn’t put it in writing then it didn’t happen.”
The Estate is directed by Daniel Raggett, with music by Ranjit Singh, Sewa Singh and Surinder Singh, especially in the evocative gurdwara funeral scenes.
On balance, I think I preferred the political aspects of Angad’s attempts to climb the greasy poll. He blackmails Ralph into dropping his support for the rival candidate, Edward Dobson, by reminding the chief whip of his disgusting practices with biscuits at school.
A well-known Asian woman playwright came out and summed up the character of Angad: “What a s**t!”
On the evidence of The Estate, Sahota, who read history and modern languages at Oxford followed by medicine at Cambridge and is now a “writer and doctor from Southall”, shows talent for writing political comedy.
Nye and The Estate are at the National Theatre until August 16 and August 23, respectively.