Tarek Amin's 'Echoes of Existence' showcases bodies caught in time and reaching for escape
A visual dialogue between flesh and spirit
Manzu Islam
By Manzu IslamAug 08, 2025
Highlights:
Woodcut prints that explore the fragile threshold between body, time, and transcendence
Inspired by Baul mystics like Lalon Shai and Shah Abdul Karim, as well as sculptural forms from Michelangelo to Rodin
Figures emerge from black holes and womb-like voids — trapped in time yet reaching for freedom
A visual dialogue between flesh and spirit, rootedness and flight
A bold continuation of South Asian metaphysical traditions in contemporary form
Paradox becomes the path: muscular bodies dream of escape through light, memory, and love
Expressionist in tone, haunting in imagery — a theatre of becoming
I imagine Tarek Amin (Ruhul Amin Tarek) has a singular vision as his hands work on his craft, his measuring eyes, the membranes of his fingers. They are mostly woodcut prints on the threshold of becoming, from darkened holes. A human figure dangling in space, yet not without gravitational pull, the backwards tilt of the head is like a modern-day high jumper in the fall position, the muscles and ribcage straining to keep the body's mass afloat. A clock is ticking away in the background of a darkened rectangle. Is it the black hole, the womb, or the nothingness from which the first murmurings of being, its tentative emergence into light, can be heard?
A clock is ticking away in the background of a darkened rectangleManzu Islam
This one is in the darkened inside of a clock, as if in the womb of time, but not quite trapped in the savage tick-tock of the metronome, for the body in its stylised repose is already stirring to take flight. Why else would the face turn away from the body in its sideways position and look beyond the dark hole, beyond the frame of time?
Even the figure deep in sleep in the primal bed of the darkened womb is not as lost to time as it first appears. The legs have already wriggled their way beyond the frame. Besides, the folds of the garment covering the lower body are billowing in the wind, as if responding to the summons of the beyond to take flight into the infinite. They are all over, these black holes that imprison even a tiny flicker of light. Staged almost as an expressionist theatre reminiscent of Ludwig Kirchner et al and the Bridge Group’s woodcut prints where dark areas, looming large, provide abodes for the likes of Nosferatu or the sinister zones of danger in a Hitchcock film, but always pointing to the lighted outside, the avenue of escape, even transcendence, as Tarek Amin tends to think.
Often bathed in metamorphic ochre and orange, these figures inspired by Bengal’s deep-rooted philosophers and mystical poets, such as Lalon Shai and Shah Abdul Karim, are swept along by their melodies of love and dread, which, despite being authorised in the name of an ineffable stranger, never fail to touch the very membrane of the soul. Perhaps that’s why Tarek Amin calls this series of artwork Echoes of Existence.
The body in its stylised repose is already stirring to take flightManzu Islam
In Ovid’s Metamorphoses, Narcissus, trapped in the mirroring surface of the water, stays deaf to Echo’s lovelorn calls. From Tarek Amin’s canvases, the echoes resolute not to take no for an answer insist on being heard, even though they speak in whispers.
What do these echoes speak of? Mostly of bodies, sinuous bodies toned and chiselled like Yukio Mishima’s, destined for a metaphysical journey. These journeys are fraught with dangers, as Mishima’s have been, imploding in a manic misadventure. Tarek Amin’s bodies, taken at once from the body-centred metaphysics of the Bauls (of which Lalon Shai and Shah Abdul Karim are preeminent figures), and from the long lines of sculptures from Michelangelo to Rodin and beyond.
Auguste Rodin looked at Michelangelo, who spurred him on his creative journey. But the Frenchman, being a workman and given to the sheer materiality of objects, the thingness of things which prompted Rilke to his poetic exploration of Dinggedicht (thing-poem), gave his figures ample volume, substance, and the rough edges of their emergence. Rodin’s bodies, weighed down by their dense matter, are rooted in places. They are too heavy to take flight. Analogous to Rodin, although working in a different medium, is the work of Bangladeshi painter SM Sultan. His embodied figures, mainly peasants bulging with muscle, know only work. Labouring in the fields, their muscles protruding all over their anatomy, creating fleshy mountains and slopes that even the likes of Arnold Schwarzenegger couldn’t dream of in their wildest imagination, is too heavy. They seem more likely to sink under their own weight than take flight. If there is an escape route for them, it is by digging deep, like Kafka’s moles.
Sure, bodies are houses of being, but some bodies are bent on dragging their being elsewhere. This, I sense, is the case in Tarek Amin’s work. Muscular bodies, bound by the sheer force of their materiality, and yet they want to fly elsewhere, it doesn’t matter how one names it: beloved, divine, or even God (Lalon imagines him as a strange neighbour in a hall of mirrors so close and yet aeons away). It seems we’ve ended up with a paradox. Rooted in bodies and yet looking for lines of flight. Imprisoned by the clock and yet wishing to melt it away as Salvador Dalí so theatrically wanted, or as Henri Bergson so patiently waited to experience his durée, as the cubes of sugar dissolved in water, which sent young Marcel Proust wild with excitement, thinking he had found the key to retrieving lost time.
Yet paradox is not a negative force. In carnival, particularly in the Caribbean one sees some figures in their limbo dancing, lowering themselves to almost ground level to pass the bar, while others elongate themselves on stilts to touch the sky. The high and the low, all at the same time, is the force that disrupts the habitual orders of things. It unleashes the forces of creation.
Tarek Amin’s bodies, then rooted in their flesh and chiselled muscles, and in dreams of escape with the melodies of Lalon Shai and Shah Abdul Karim are the figures of freedom. It will be a bumpy ride, but I wish them well.
Exhibition Title:Echoes of Existence
Artist: Tarek Amin Date: 20–27 June 2025 Venue: Spitalfields Studios, London E1
Manzu Islam is a British-Bangladeshi writer and academic, author of The Mapmakers of Spitalfields, Burrow, and Godzilla and the Song Bird. His fiction explores migration, racism, and cultural identity through vivid storytelling rooted in postcolonial experiences.
Turner Prize Bursary-winning filmmaker explores fractured friendships in Ish
Inspired by his own teenage experiences
Cast two real-life friends as the leads
Film tackles race, policing, and belonging in Britain
Screening at this year’s BFI London Film Festival
Returning to the friendships of youth
Imran Perretta, the London-based artist and Turner Prize Bursary-winning filmmaker behind The Destructors, says his new work Ish was born out of reflection on his own teenage friendships.
“It was an excuse to go back to those times and relive what it means to have friendships that are so deep in your teenage years,” he explains. “Even though what happens between the boys is difficult, there’s also joy and heartbreak.”
Portraying the stop-and-search
At the heart of the story is a police stop-and-search that shatters the relationship between two boys, Ish and Maram. Perretta was determined to avoid sensationalism.
“I wanted to shoot that scene in a way that reflected how it unfolds in real life—the pauses, the waiting, the trauma of seeing a young boy step out. I didn’t try to overthink it. I just wanted to give it the rhythm and emotional weight it has in real life.”
Perretta was determined to avoid sensationalism BFI
Friendship, self-determination, and identity
Although friendship and identity frame the film, Perretta prefers to speak of “self-determination.”
“Identity as a notion is manifold. Really, it’s about finding yourself in a nuanced way. I wanted the actors to bring themselves to it. That way it becomes more contemporary, more true to their experience as young people.”
Writing from life, but letting go
The film draws heavily on Perretta’s own life, a challenge he found both personal and universal. Co-writing with Enda Walsh allowed him to step back.
“Sometimes when you write from your life, it can feel problematic, like you’re lying to make it fit a narrative. Sharing the writing meant I didn’t have to hold on so tightly. And when the boys played it out, it became their story. That was freeing, both creatively and personally.”
Casting real-life friends
For Perretta, authenticity was key. He and casting director Lara Manwaring rounded up nearly a thousand boys in Luton, seeking non-actors rooted in the community. The final choice was serendipitous: Farhad and Yahya, who not only impressed in auditions but turned out to be real-life friends since nursery.
“The chemistry was off the charts. They’d been building it since they were kids. We didn’t have to work on it at all.”
Contributing to wider conversations
Perretta hopes Ish resonates beyond cinema.
“My practice has always been to look at how government policy and state power affect people’s intimate lives. With stop-and-search, I want people to see the young person at the centre of it, to understand how it can change their life, their sense of self, their relationship with authority. It’s not a spectacle, it’s deeply personal.”
Supporting the young cast
Though the subject matter was heavy, Perretta insists the young cast carried it with remarkable maturity. His role, he says, was more like an older brother.
“Film sets are pressurised environments. Our job was to make sure the boys felt valued, so they could express themselves freely. None of them had acted before, but they gave everything of themselves. It felt like a family.”
Perretta insists the young cast carried it with remarkable maturity BFI
The importance of silence and stillness
Moments of quiet are as vital as the dramatic ones.
“Life is filled with silence and stillness, and so are friendships. Falling asleep under a tree, waiting at a bus stop, drifting off after watching something troubling—those moments carry their own weight. They’re just as important as the high drama.”
Screening at BFI London Film Festival
Ish will be screening at this year’s BFI London Film Festival as part of the First Feature Competition.
Screening dates & venues:
Wednesday 15th October at 8:45pm
Thursday 16th October at 2:15pm Location: BFI Southbank, NFT2
The 69th BFI London Film Festival runs from 8–19 October at venues in London and across the UK. More information:www.bfi.org.uk/lff
What audiences should take away
Ultimately, Perretta wants Ish to prompt reflection.
“I hope audiences think about their own friendships and heartbreaks. And I hope they see that it’s okay to leave a relationship, whether with a best friend or a parent, that grief can be a positive energy. Beyond that, I want people to stay aware of the lives of young people, and the very adult things they have to contend with.”
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The lost ‘Punjabi Disco’ record that quietly changed UK British Asian club culture is finally back
A ground-breaking 1982 album combined Punjabi folk with electronic disco.
It was made to break down gender segregation at British Asian weddings.
Only 500 copies were ever pressed before it vanished into obscurity.
The original master tapes were rescued just before they turned to dust.
Its 2025 reissue finally gives a lost classic its proper moment.
Imagine a sound so ahead of its time it simply disappeared. Raw synths and a woman singing Punjabi like she was calling people to the floor. There’s anger in the story. Pride too. Mohinder Kaur Bhamra made something that did not fit then. Now it is back. Punjabi Disco was always meant to pull people into one room. To stop the quiet rules that kept women in a corner. It was a record born in West London that dared to smash traditions together, creating a revolutionary beat to get everyone dancing. Now, this lost chapter of British music is finally being heard, and it changes the story of our dance floors.
The lost ‘Punjabi Disco’ record that quietly changed UK British Asian club culture is finally back Instagram/naya.beat/mohinder.kaurbhamra
How did Punjabi Disco try to change society?
For the British Asian community in the early 1980s, racism was a constant pressure. Inside, the community held itself together, but with strict rules. At Punjabi weddings in the UK, men and women were often kept separate. The dance floor was a male space and Mohinder Kaur Bhamra had had enough. She started using her voice, her authority, to call the women in. "I felt it wasn’t fair," she said. Her son, Kuljit Bhamra, watched this and saw the power of music as a tool. He soaked up the disco energy from clubs and decided to build a new sound specifically for these new, mixed dance floors. The music was the engine for a quiet social revolution.
The lost \u2018Punjabi Disco\u2019 record that quietly changed UK British Asian club culture is finally back Instagram/naya.beat/mohinder.kaurbhamra
The basement sessions that built a new sound
Let’s get this straight. Kuljit Bhamra was not in a fancy studio. He was a 22-year-old with a head full of ideas, working out of his basement. His tools? A Roland SH-1000, one of the first synthesizers you could buy, and a clunky CR-8000 drum machine played by his 11-year-old brother, Ambi.
They brought in bassist Trevor Michael Georges and recorded at a small studio owned by Roxy Music’s bass player. But the heart of it was that basement. Kuljit took his mother Mohinder’s powerful voice trained in Punjabi folk, and wove it through these gritty, electronic rhythms.
Why did this revolutionary Punjabi Disco album vanish?
Punjabi Disco is a nine-track record made in London in 1982 by Mohinder Kaur Bhamra with production by her son Kuljit. It combined Punjabi folk singing with early synths and drum machines, a sound that prefigures later British Asian electronic music. Here is where the story turns sour. After being promised a deal, the Bhamras found a cassette in a Southall shop called Punjabi Disco but with a different singer. Someone had stolen their idea. Devastated, they managed a tiny release of just 500 copies. With no real marketing, Kuljit took to his bike, dropping off copies at local corner shops himself.
It was a hopeless task. The record sank without a trace. Mohinder went back to singing at weddings. Kuljit moved on, later becoming a legendary Bhangra producer. The album’s scarcity gave it myth status until recent rediscovery.
What does the 2025 reissue of Punjabi Disco mean now?
This is where the ghost gets a second chance. DJ Raghav Mani, who calls the album "the holy grail," spent three years tracking down the original master tapes. They were found and digitised just before they decayed forever. It is like connecting a 40-year-old vision to today’s dance culture. For Mohinder, now 89, it is a moment of quiet pride for what her family created. The beat, it turns out, was always there. We just had to find it.
The record arrives on 31 October 2025 as a remastered 2xLP and across streaming services. The reissue includes a roaring lost track, Dohai Ni Dohai, that never got released, plus remixes and covers by Peaking Lights, Baalti, Psychemagik, Mystic Jungle, and others. Naya Beat has pre-orders and single previews available now. The reissue lets club producers and listeners meet the original grooves head-on.
Why Punjabi Disco matters for British Asian culture today
This is not just a curious relic. It is proof of something often forgotten: experimentation and social change were happening in community halls long before the mainstream noticed. Mohinder actively invited women onto the main floor at family events and Kuljit scored music for that moment. That social aim, to make the dance floor mixed, is as important as the sound. The reissue, in fact, restores a piece of social history that shows how music shaped how a community moved and mixed.
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Visitors view gowns and displays at the Marie Antoinette Style exhibition at the V&A
For Eastern Eye visitors to the sumptuous new Marie Antoinette Style exhibition at the V&A, the whole show has to be seen in the context of India’s relations with France and especially that between Tipu Sultan, ruler of Mysore, and the young fashion queen.
Marie Antoinette, the Princess Diana of her day, loved to wear the muslin and printed cotton gowns sent from India.
In return, she sent Tipu delicate Sèvres porcelain, plus busts of herself and her husband, King Louis XVI.
Tipu’s plan was to form an alliance with the French in his fight against the British. The alliance never materialised, although Tipu did send ambassadors to France.
A portrait of Tipu Sultan
Tipu and Marie Antoinette’s exchange of gifts was immortalised in paintings and sketches.
The exhibition’s curator, Sarah Grant, told Eastern Eye of Marie Antoinette’s connection with Tipu: “Tipu Sultan sent his ambassadors to the court of France on an official visit. They presented gifts to Marie Antoinette – Indian muslins and beautiful gowns. And she presented gifts which they took back. But one of the busts (of herself) was looted by British soldiers in the 19th century and brought to England. So it had this extraordinary history. There was this interesting exchange of style and fashion between India and France.
A painting of Marie Antoinette and Louis XVI receiving Tipu Sultan’s ambassadors in 1788
“All this is well documented. There are paintings of the ambassadors arriving at court in Versailles. There was an exhibition, Visitors to Versailles, which looked at diplomatic visits from India and China. But it seems Tipu Sultan and Marie Antoinette had a particular connection.
“India had developed the technology for printed and dyed cotton, something in which they were leaders in the world. France tried to steal that knowledge and technology, and sent spies to observe the processes. There was a ban on importing Indian printed cottons into France. So many people were wearing them that officials feared importing would damage France’s native industries. But cotton cloth was still being imported from India. They were printing it in France and selling it.”
She agreed “100 per cent” with the V&A’s director, Tristram Hunt, who described Marie Antoinette as “the most fashionable queen in history across 230 years of design, dress and film”.
Hunt added: “The exhibition combines her infamy with her influence. Balancing the sumptuous 18th century gowns on show are contemporary fashion pieces in the final room, including couture works by designers such as Moschino, Dior, Chanel and Vivienne Westwood, and, of course, the wonderful costumes designed for Sofia Coppola’s brilliant Oscar winning Marie Antoinette.”
Grant said: “Part of it is she was very fashionable. She loved fashion. Obviously, most monarchs, most queens, most emperors, most empresses, dress in finery. But she was particularly interested in new fashions, new styles. The pace of fashion accelerated under her.
The Sutherland Diamonds
“She’s not just stylish. She’s not just wearing what everyone else is wearing. She is creating new fashions and inspiring other people. Certainly, people in the Anglo-Saxon world, in North America and in Britain, were following very closely what Marie Antoinette was wearing in France. She dies young, and we never see her age.”
Tipu, who was born on December 1, 1751, was the Sultan of Mysore from 1782 until he was killed in battle defending his stronghold of Srirangapatnam on May 4, 1799. He was defeated in the Fourth Anglo-Mysore War by a combined force of the British East India Company troops supported by the Marathas and the Nizam of Hyderabad.
Marie Antoinette born Maria Antonia Josepha Johanna von Habsburg-Lothringen, archduchess of Austria, in Vienna on November 2, 1755, the daughter of Empress Maria Theresa and Emperor Francis I. She married Louis Auguste, Dauphin of France, in May 1770 at the age of 14, becoming the Dauphine of France.
On May 10, 1774, her husband ascended the throne as King Louis XVI, and she became queen. She was the last queen of France before the French Revolution and the establishment of the First Republic. Her husband was sent to the guillotine on January 21, 1793, in Paris, during the French Revolution. She was similarly executed on October 16, 1793.
A portrait of Marie Antoinette by François Hubert Drouais (1773)
Marie Antoinette was accused of saying, “Let them eat cake”, when informed the poor couldn’t afford bread. She said no such thing. But the quote has stuck and her alleged heartlessness used to justify her execution.
The exhibition has a sketch of the executioner waving her head. There is also the chemise she wore in her death cell. It very much resembles an Indian kurta. There is also a plaster cast of her severed head.
The exhibition displays a muslin dress from 1785-90, similar to the one Marie Antoinette had worn.
Antoinette had worn. “This is one of only two muslin chemise dresses from Marie Antoinette’s time that survives, a style that the queen helped to popularise,” says a note. “In her memoirs, Madame Campan described the queen and her friends in the summer of 1778 dressed in ‘muslin gowns, with large straw hats and muslin veils, a costume universally adopted by women at that time’. The queen also wore a muslin gown given to her by Tipu Sultan in 1788.”
There is another “Robe à la francaise”, from 1775-80: “In the late 1770s, Marie Antoinette and her circle embraced gowns made of cotton and linen as lighter and fresher alternatives to silk. This gown’s pink silk lining, visible through the fine white muslin, creates a blush effect, which was a specific contemporary trend. France’s East India Company imported many cotton fabrics from India, such as this figured and embroidered muslin.”
The exhibition has a reference to diamonds, probably sourced from India.
The “Diamond Necklace Affair” is explained: “In 1784 and 1785, a necklace became the centre of a theft that captivated the French public. With diamonds totalling 2,842 carats, it was the most expensive necklace ever made in France. Louis XV commissioned it for his mistress, Madame du Barry, but died before it was completed. The necklace was offered to Marie Antoinette who refused it, but a con artist, Jeanne de la Motte, tricked a courtier, the Cardinal de Rohan, into paying for part of it, supposedly on behalf of the queen. La Motte then absconded with the diamonds. Although Marie Antoinette was entirely innocent, the fallout dealt a fatal blow to her already ailing reputation.”
A muslin gown worn by the French queen
There is a display of the “Sutherland Diamonds”, with the setting from 1780-90: “The stolen necklace from the ‘Diamond Necklace Affair’ was broken up and brought to England. These diamonds almost certainly come from that sale. Probably mined in Golconda, India, the stones are of the finest clarity and brilliance. The central diamond alone weighs about 15 carats. They were worn by successive Duchesses of Sutherland to the coronations of Queen Victoria and George VI.”
The steel tycoon Lakshmi Mittal could consider dropping in to see the exhibition, since some of the 250 objects on display come from Chateau de Versailles, the main royal residence (although Marie Antoinette also had a private residence, Petit Trianon, in the palace grounds). When Mittal’s daughter, Vanisha Mittal, married Amit Bhatia in 2004 in a £30m wedding, there was a glittering feast for 1,000 guests at the Palace in Versailles hired for the occasion.
Marie Antoinette Style is at the V&A until March 22, 2026.
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Ambika Mod returns to the stage in the Royal Court’s new play Porn Play
Olivier winner Will Close joins Ambika Mod in the world premiere production.
The play explores a young academic’s secret addiction to violent pornography.
Acclaimed choreographer Wayne McGregor joins the creative team as movement director.
Performances run from 6 November to 13 December 2025 at the Jerwood Theatre Upstairs.
The Royal Court Theatre has unveiled the full company for its upcoming world premiere, Porn Play. Joining the previously announced Ambika Mod is Olivier Award winner Will Close, fresh from his success in Dear England. This new production, a co-production with SISTER, promises a funny and unsettling look at the double life of a high-achieving academic. The creative team also got a significant boost with the involvement of award-winning choreographer Wayne McGregor.
Ambika Mod returns to the stage in the Royal Court’s new play Porn Play www.easterneye.biz
What is Porn Play actually about?
Let’s cut through the provocative title. The play centres on a character named Ani, a brilliant academic who seems to have it all: awards, lectures, and a shining career. But beneath the surface, she’s grappling with a secret she can’t control: an addiction to violent pornography.
The story tracks how this hidden compulsion starts to fray her public persona and private relationships. It’s described as honest and unsettling, a proper character study rather than a simple shock-fest. Writer Sophia Chetin-Leuner is making her Royal Court debut with this, and she’s known for digging into complex psychological territory.
Ambika Mod returns to the stage in the Royal Court\u2019s new play Porn Play www.easterneye.biz
Who else is in the cast alongside Ambika Mod and Will Close?
The ensemble is seriously strong. They’ve got Lizzy Connolly, whose stage work ranges from the Donmar Warehouse to the Old Vic, and Asif Khan, a familiar face at the Royal Court and from the recent ITV drama Mr Bates vs The Post Office. It’s a tight four-hander, which suggests an intense, focused piece. Mod, of course, is riding an incredible wave after One Day and This Is Going to Hurt, but this is a return to the stage for her. And with Close’s Olivier Award for Dear England, the casting feels very deliberate, pairing actors known for their detailed, truthful work.
Why is Wayne McGregor’s involvement a big deal for a play?
You see a name like Wayne McGregor, a choreographer for the Royal Ballet and major films, on a play’s creative list, and it makes you look twice. He’s on board as the movement director. That’s not just about arranging a few stage crossings. For a play called Porn Play, which deals with desire, compulsion, and the physical manifestation of a secret life, movement could be absolutely central. How do you physically portray an internal addiction? McGregor’s signature is intelligent, often visceral physical storytelling. His role suggests the production will tell as much through the body as through the text, which is a fascinating prospect. With Josie Rourke directing and Mark Henderson on lights, it’s a top-tier team.
Mark the diaries. Porn Play will be staged in the Jerwood Theatre Upstairs, the Royal Court’s more intimate space, which feels right for this subject matter. The run is from Thursday 6 November 2025 through to Saturday 13 December 2025 and the press night is set for Thursday 13 November. Given the buzz around the cast and creative team, tickets will likely be in demand. It’s exactly the kind of bold, new writing the Royal Court built its reputation on.
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Princess Karam of Kapurthala, photographed by Cecil Beaton in 1935
A FAMOUS photograph taken by Cecil Beaton of an Indian princess features in an exhibition of his work, Fashionable World, at the National Portrait Gallery.
Beaten made his name by taking pictures of the English upper classes and also Hollywood stars, but some of his most striking – and evocative – images are of Indian royalty.
One taken in 1935 was of Sita Devi, Princess Karmajit of Kapurthala, who was also known as Princess Karam and eulogised as “the Pearl of India”.
She was the muse of several photographers, including Beaton, and considered “one of the most beautiful women in the world”. Born into the Hindu Rajput royal family of Kashipur in 1915, she embarked on a remarkable journey at the age of 13 when she married Prince Karamjit Singh, the younger son of Maharajah Jagatjit Singh I of Kapurthala in Punjab. She died in 2002.
According to one report, “her frequent visits to Paris saw her rubbing shoulders with the crème de la crème of European society, enchanting the Parisian elite with her exquisite blend of traditional Indian elegance and European haute couture. Her sartorial choices were a seamless fusion of her royal Indian heritage and the avant-garde fashion of Paris, making her a muse for esteemed designers like Mainbocher and Madame Grès. She effortlessly carried saris with the same grace as she did the luxurious gowns and fur coats designed by these fashion legends, often accessorised with jewels from Cartier and Boucheron.
“At the age of 19, Vogue hailed her as a ‘secular goddess’, a title that reflected her transcendent appeal and impeccable fashion sense. Her influence extended beyond borders, captivating the imagination of the Italian designer Elsa Schiaparelli, who was so inspired by the princess’s saris that she dedicated her 1935 collection to them. This collection was a homage to the traditional Indian garment, reimagined through the lens of European haute couture. Schiaparelli’s designs captured the fluidity and grace of the sari, while infusing it with the avantgarde spirit of the time, thus bridging two distinct cultural aesthetics. The princess’s impact on the fashion world was profound, as she brought the elegance of Indian attire to the forefront of the Parisian fashion scene, influencing styles and trends across continents.”
Gayatri Devi, Maharani of Jaipur at Rambagh Palace
Fashionable World will be the first exhibition to exclusively explore Beaton’s pioneering contributions to fashion photography. “From Hollywood stars and titans of art, to high society and royalty, the exhibition will feature portraits of some of the twentieth century’s most iconic figures, including Marilyn Monroe, Audrey Hepburn, Elizabeth Taylor and Marlon Brando; Queen Elizabeth II and Princess Margaret; as well as Lucian Freud, Francis Bacon and Salvador Dalí,” the NPG has announced.
The exhibition is curated by photographic historian and contributing editor to Vogue, Robin Muir.
In 2020, he curated another Beaton exhibition, Bright Young Things, at the NPG but this had to be closed because of the pandemic. That, too, had a photograph of Princess Karamjit.
The caption to her photograph then read: “A fixture on the social scene in the pre-war years, the Princess was in demand, frequently for jewellery stories, not least because her husband commissioned extravagant pieces from Cartier and Van Cleef and Arpels. Cecil photographed her in diamond bracelet by Cartier, emblazoned with an emerald, which he recalled, was ‘the size of a small fruit’. The princess’s credentials as a style leader were cemented when (Italian fashion designer) Elsa Schiaparelli based a collection on her colourful saris.”
She also merited a whole page in the 2020 catalogue which explained: “Beaton had been transfixed by one Indian in particular, the beautiful Sita Devi, Princess Karam of Kapurthala.
“Her mondaine chic inspired Ira Gershwin’s lyrics to Maharanee(A Night at the Races in Paris), a number from the Broadway revue, The Ziegfield Follies of 1936.”
The lyrics went: Even if you were just half as sweet, /It would still be like heaven to meet/Such a gay Maharanee/Paris is at your feet!
Fashionable World, which will open next month, will display around 250 items, including photographs, letters, sketches and costumes.
Muir commented: “Cecil Beaton needs little introduction as a photographer, fashion illustrator, triple Oscar-winning costume designer, social caricaturist, elegant writer of essays and occasionally waspish diaries, stylist, decorator, dandy and party goer. Beaton’s impact spans the worlds of fashion, photography and design. Unquestionably one of the leading visionary forces of the British twentieth century, he also made a lasting contribution to the artistic lives of New York, Paris and Hollywood.”
Victoria Siddall, director of the NPG, pointed out: “The National Portrait Gallery has a long and distinguished history with Cecil Beaton. His work was the subject of the NPG’s first dedicated photography exhibition in 1968, made in collaboration with Beaton himself, as well as being the first solo survey accorded any living photographer in any national museum in Britain. We are honoured to be working with Vogue’s Robin Muir, whose exhaustive research, vision and flair will guide us through Beaton’s innovative and storied influences on the fashion world.”
Actress Elizabeth Taylor, 1955
The exhibition catalogue will explain why “Cecil Beaton (1904–1980) was an extraordinary force in the 20th century British and American creative scenes. Renowned as a fashion illustrator, Oscarwinning costume designer, social caricaturist, essayist, and decorated writer, Beaton’s impact spans the worlds of fashion, photography, and design.”
The NPG added, “Known as ‘The King of Vogue’, he elevated fashion and portrait photography into an art form. His eradefining photographs captured beauty, glamour, and star power in the interwar and early post-war eras.
“Through several interwoven themes, the world of Cecil Beaton will be examined in detail. The exhibition will follow Beaton’s career from its inception, as a child of the Edwardian era experimenting with his first camera on his earliest subjects, his two sisters and mother (c. 1910), his years of invention and creativity as a student at Cambridge University, to his first images of the high society patrons who put him on the map. Including Stephen Tennant and the Sitwell siblings.
“The exhibition will journey through the London of the 1920s and 1930s, the era of the Bright Young Things and Beaton’s first commissions for his greatest patron, Vogue, to his travels to New York and Paris in the Jazz Age. Drawn to its glamour and star wattage, Beaton photographed the legends of Hollywood in its Golden Age. Cecil Beaton’s first royal photographs appeared in the late 1930s. As the Second World War loomed, he defined the notion of the monarchy for a modern age. Appointed an official war photographer by the Ministry of Information, his wartime service took him around the globe.
Beaton at the opening of his painting exhibition in London, 1966
“The war’s end ushered in a new era of elegance and Beaton captured the high fashion brilliance of the 1950s in vivid, glorious colour. The exhibition will end with what many consider his greatest triumph and by which he is likely best known: the costumes and sets for the musical My Fair Lady, on stage and later on screen.
“Almost entirely self-taught, Beaton established a singular photographic style; a marriage of Edwardian stage portraiture, emerging European surrealism and the modernist approach of the great American photographers of the era, all filtered through a determinedly English sensibility.”
In India he also photographed Gayatri Devi, the Maharani of Jaipur; the Maharani of Pratapgarh, Chimnabai II; and Maharani Kusum Kunwarba of Chhota Udepur in Gujarat.
Photographing Indian royals helped Beaton obscure his own middle-class origins, which greatly embarrassed the photographer. In 1923, he admitted: “I don’t want people to know me as I really am, but as I am trying and pretending to be.”