Skip to content
Search

Latest Stories

William Dalrymple: India keeps pulling me back with its rich history

Author reflects on ignorance in the West of subcontinent's influence

William Dalrymple: India keeps pulling me back with its rich history
William Dalrymple and his wife Olivia Fraser

THE acclaimed historian, William Dalrymple, recently chatted to Eastern Eye about his life in India during a break in proceedings at the Financial Times Weekend Festival, held annually in the grounds of Kenwood House bordering the lush green of Hampstead Heath in north London.

He was at the festival to talk about his new book, The Golden Road: How Ancient India Transformed the World.


His interview with Eastern Eye was interrupted by passing Indian admirers, among them were chef and cookery writer Ravinder Bhogal, her husband Nadeem Lalani, and the musician Nitin Sawhney.

Meanwhile, Dalrymple’s wife, the artist Olivia Fraser, handed her husband a cup of coffee. The couple and their three children live on a goat farm outside Delhi.

His Scottish lineage itself requires a bit of research. William Benedict Hamilton-Dalrymple was born on March 20, 1965 and read history at Trinity College, Cambridge. He is the son of Sir Hew Hamilton-Dalrymple, 10th Baronet of North Berwick and Lady Anne-Louise Keppel, a daughter of Walter Keppel, 9th Earl of Albemarle; through this line of descent, he is the third cousin of Queen Camilla, both being great-great-grandchildren of William Keppel, 7th Earl of Albemarle. He is a great nephew of Virginia Woolf.

His books, mostly bestsellers, include In Xanadu (1989); City of Djinns: A Year in Delhi (1994); From the Holy Mountain: A Journey in the Shadow of Byzantium (1997); and The Age of Kali (1998).

He is also the author of Nine Lives: In Search of the Sacred in Modern India (2009); Koh-i-Noor: The History of the World’s Most Infamous Diamond (2017), co-written with the BBC journalist Anita Anand; and The Writer’s Eye (2016).

The covers of The Golden Road

His “Company quartet” includes White Mughals (2002); The Last Mughal, The Fall of a Dynasty, Delhi 1857 (2006); Return of a King: The Battle for Afghanistan (2012); and The Anarchy: The Relentless Rise of the East India Company (2019).

In photo shoots to coincide with the publication of his books, he is likely to have an Indian shawl casually draped round his shoulders.

In fact, Dalrymple is regarded as an “honorary Indian”.

“By some people,” he acknowledges. He points out that he has now lived happily in India for 40 years.

“I went for the first time, aged 18,” he remembers. “I had my 19th birthday in Hampi (in Karnataka). All my adult life I have lived in India, though I am not Indian, and I can never really be Indian. I don’t have an Indian passport.”

When it’s suggested he knows more about India than most Indians, he demurs: “That’s not for me to say. But I know I have Indian ancestors from Chandannagar (previously Chandernagore) (in West Bengal). But I’m being nitpicky here. All my life I have had a very, very generous reception in India.”

He adds that he is “incredibly used” to living in India: “I’ve always loved it. I live there for the pleasure of it. There are many other jobs I could be doing and many other parts of the world that I could be writing about. I go on a summer holiday in Greece or somewhere, and I do think it would be rather lovely to write about the Corinth or the Peloponnese or Italy. But India keeps taking me back.”

Have his books, especially his savaging of the East India Company in The Anarchy, been influential in persuading young British people to look at the empire through critical eyes?

“I’m only a humble foot soldier in a wider movement, but yes, there’s been an awful lot of work by many authors showing that the very uncritical view of empire that we were brought up with hid an awful lot of war crimes and atrocities,” says Dalrymple. “And all four of my company books demonstrate that very clearly, though there are a thousand other authors working at the same coal face.

“And we interview them every week in my podcast with Anita Anand – Empire – which I think has had far more influence than my books. With books, you’re lucky if you sell 100,000 copies after five years of hard work. But the podcast is listened to every week by 880,000 people. It’s a completely different scale.”

He adds that Sathnam Sanghera, author of Empireland, “has been an important part of the story. Anita (Anand) has been important part of the story. David Olusoga, not of Indian origin but working as a Nigerian in the same sort of field, has been important part of it. And none of us are (extremist left) Naxalites mounting the barricades.”

Dalrymple and his wife with Nitin Sawhney, Ravinder Bhogal and her husband Nadeem Lalani

Sanghera said that although Dalrymple has been just as critical of the Empire, he has faced very little racist abuse that is heaped on non-white authors.

Dalrymple agrees: “That’s a difference. On the other hand, many people in India have not been thrilled with my book about the Mughals. In general, it’s still true that it’s very easy for people to work well in both directions. It’s still what our diplomat friends like to call ‘the living bridge’, and it’s still very open. There will be some resistance in both directions, but it’s a positive experience for both peoples crossing in the other direction.”

Judging from social media, he anticipated “a mixed reception” for The Golden Road when he got back to India. This was because a westerner was writing about India’s classical past.

Dalrymple is considered to be very pro-Indian, so why isn’t there an Indian version of the author living in the UK and being equally positive about Britain?

He doesn’t accept the premise of the question: “I mean, in a different field, there hasn’t been a Rishi Sunak in India. You’ve had an Indian prime minister. You’ve got the (Lakshmi) Mittals. You’ve got a thousand super successful Indian businessmen all over this country. At one point it was a toss up (for the Tory leadership) between Rishi, Suella Braverman and Priti Patel. So, I’m not sure I would entirely agree with your assessment.

“Indians find it very easy to do well here, as evidenced by their enormous success. They are the most successful immigrant group. There are 350 years of Imperial atrocity before me arriving in 1984. But in both countries, you will find those who mutter about the number of Indians in the cabinet, or you will find those on the internet who are less than thrilled that some white guy is writing about Brahmagupta and Aryabhata. Inevitably, you’re not going to have everyone love you. In general, I should say this loud and clear, my biggest market is India.

“For most of my early books, I was mainly writing for a British audience. But I think the changeover came probably with White Mughals, the first of my books to sell more in India than in Britain. And that’s been the case with every book I have written since. The Anarchy sold 100,000 hardback in India, and it would have sold, I would imagine, a third less in Britain.”

More For You

Osman Mir

Osman Mir A Musical Fusion of East and West

Gujarat's Vibrant Spirit: Osman Mir at Southbank

London’s iconic Royal Festival Hall is set to come alive with the sounds of Gujarat on Saturday, 17 May, as celebrated folk singer Osman Mir joins forces with the Third Culture Collective in a unique musical experience. This unmissable performance, held at the Southbank Centre, will celebrate the rich tapestry of Gujarati folk traditions reimagined through the lens of a western classical orchestra.

Known for his powerful voice and deep-rooted connection to traditional Indian music, Osman Mir brings the soul of Gujarat to the global stage. From bhajans and garbas to poetic folk melodies, his artistry has won the hearts of audiences across the world. In this one-of-a-kind collaboration, he will perform with the Third Culture Collective – a group of boundary-pushing musicians who blend eastern and western musical influences to create something truly original.

Keep ReadingShow less
Wes Anderson

'The Archives' will be on display from 21 November 2025

Getty

Wes Anderson exhibition to feature Grand Budapest Hotel model in London at Design Museum

A model of The Grand Budapest Hotel will be among more than 600 objects featured in a major new Wes Anderson exhibition opening at the Design Museum in London later this year.

Titled Wes Anderson: The Archives, the retrospective has been developed by the museum in collaboration with the acclaimed American filmmaker and La Cinémathèque française. It is set to open on 21 November 2025 and will explore Anderson’s distinctive visual style, detailed craftsmanship, and storytelling across his career.

Keep ReadingShow less
We help students gain skills to
support them beyond school: Dr Aneela Bukhari

Shailesh Solanki, Hilary McGrady from the National Trust, which supported the Embrace award, Dr Aneela Bukhari and Kalpesh Solanki at the GG2 Leadership and Diversity Awards in March.

We help students gain skills to support them beyond school: Dr Aneela Bukhari

DEVELOPING leadership and communication skills among young people is key to their future success and also has a tangible impact among communities that they live in, a senior executive at a prominent charity has said.

Dr Aneela Bukhari is the head of education at Ormiston Trust, a charity which has supported 50,000 young people from socially and economically disadvantaged backgrounds across the UK.

Keep ReadingShow less
mumbai-indians-getty

Karn Sharma and Jasprit Bumrah led the Mumbai bowling attack, picking up five wickets between them. (Photo: Getty Images)

Mumbai knock Rajasthan out of IPL playoff race with 100-run win

MUMBAI INDIANS defeated Rajasthan Royals by 100 runs on Thursday, ending Rajasthan’s hopes of making the IPL playoffs.

Batting first at the Sawai Mansingh Stadium in Jaipur, Mumbai posted 217-2 after being invited to bat. Rohit Sharma scored 53 off 36 balls and Ryan Rickelton added 61 from 38 balls in a 116-run opening partnership.

Keep ReadingShow less
Record-Breaking Heat: UK’s Hottest Early May in History

The dry conditions have contributed to wildfires

iStock

UK experiences warmest start to May on record

The UK has experienced its warmest start to May on record, with temperatures soaring and sparking concerns over climate change. According to the Met Office, Kew Gardens in south-west London recorded 29.3°C on Thursday afternoon, surpassing the previous May 1 record high of 27.4°C set at Lossiemouth in Moray in 1990. This makes May 1, 2025, the hottest on record since records began in 1860.

Thursday also marked the hottest day of the year so far, surpassing Wednesday’s high of 26.7°C recorded in Wisley, Surrey. While some may welcome the unseasonably warm weather, others have warned that such temperatures, coupled with below-average rainfall for four consecutive months, are indicative of concerning climate trends.

Keep ReadingShow less