The ‘statesman’ jacket coming back in fashion

by NADEEM BADSHAH

MODI AND STARS INSPIRE NEHRU COAT’S RETURN

IT WAS once the preferred attire for Indian prime ministers and James Bond villains before writers claimed it had gone out of fashion.

But the Nehru jacket is back thanks to star power.

Legendary French shoe designer Christian Lou­boutin wore a gold and burgundy one at the Met Gala fundraiser in New York in May.

And the hip-length tailored coat with a standing collar was also on show at the recent weddings of Bol­lywood actresses Sonam Kapoor and Neha Dhupia.

It was also the outfit donned by Sky Sports’ cricket commentators covering the Indian Premier League (IPL) and is set to be spotted on cricket fans during the Indian team’s current tour of England.

The garment got its name from Jawaharlal Nehru, the first prime minister of newly-independent India, and was also previously worn by courtiers in the Mughal era.

Mani Kohli, who owns frashion brand Khubsoorat in London”, told Eastern Eye: “The Indian prime min­ister flaunts it a lot wherever he goes; people have got used to seeing the jacket.

“They are traditional, but have now hit the fashion stands. When it hits the press, the magazine covers and the catwalk, it becomes a phenomenon.

“Celebrities have worn it and it becomes more acceptable and mainstream. We sell them for £275 upwards for a silk high collar one. Anything longer would cost more with brooches or jewellery attached.

“They are tailored coats and you would feel like a king in this attire.”

Kohli said black and cream are the most popular colours, followed by royal blue, green and maroon for weddings. She added that the jacket can be worn with a range of smart casual wear.

“If it has a collar, it makes it gentlemanly. And not having sleeves makes it relaxing and comfortable, yet very presentable and smart. Jackets and coats can be stuffy.

“You can wear it with a smart shirt, kurta shirt, jeans, smart trousers. The sleeveless jacket you can wear a kurta shirt underneath, which gives it states­man look and a classic cut.”

Marks and Spencer said sales of waistcoats have risen 35 per cent, attributing it to England football manager Gareth Southgate wearing one during the team’s successful World Cup campaign in Russia. Online retailers in the UK and India are selling the Indian jackets for between £130 and £300.

Reiss Smith, content manager at UK menswear brand Sir Plus Clothing, said it has a wide range of Nehru jackets for different social occasions.

He told Eastern Eye: “Our velvet and cashmere options are regularly purchased for formal events; we also have a linen range that many customers buy for summer weddings with matching trousers.

“Our classic wool styles are our most popular, most­ly down to their versatility. Our customers will buy one knowing they can throw it on over a knit for everyday wear, or pair with a shirt for smarter occasions.

“This season we’re introducing a more casual cot­ton Nehru that’s unlined and unstructured that’s eagerly anticipated by our younger customers.”

The jacket was in vogue in the 1960s and 1970s after being worn by The Beatles and James Bond baddies including Dr No, Ernst Stavro Blofeld and Kamal Khan.

Menswear designer Saran Kohli said the Nehru waistcoat, known as the Jawahar, has become popu­lar due to the quality of materials used.

He said: “Recently the jackets have been re-intro­duced with fine quality materials such as Italian suitings, British tweeds and Indian khadi, which brings out the best of each personality.

“It can be formal or create a quirky statement ac­companied with colour pocket squares or scarfs. Perfect for pre-parties and mehendi ceremonies for grooms and guests.”