VETERAN British Nepalese mountaineer Nirmal Purja was among 10 climbers killed after an avalanche struck Broad Peak in Pakistan-administered Gilgit-Baltistan, bringing to an end the career of one of the world's best-known high-altitude climbers.
Purja, 43, and the nine other members of his expedition were swept away on Thursday (30) while attempting to reach the summit of the 8,047-metre peak in the Karakoram range near K2. The avalanche struck at an altitude of about 7,000 metres.
His expedition company, Elite Exped, confirmed on Saturday (1) that no member of the team had survived.
"It is with profound sadness and immense heartbreak that we confirm that Nirmal 'Nimsdai' Purja tragically lost his life following the avalanche on Broad Peak," the company said. It added that the world had lost "one of mountaineering's greatest climbers".
The victims included five climbers from Nepal, one Pakistani, one Omani, one American, one Chinese national and Purja, who was born in Nepal and later became a British citizen. The company also paid tribute to Pur Bahadur Gurung and Nima Sherpa, describing them as Purja's trusted climbing partners and guides.
Pakistan's Alpine Club said four bodies had been recovered by Friday (31), including those of Oman's Nadhira Ahmed Abdullah Al Harthy, Nepal's Pur Bahadur Gurung and American Mallory Geis. Rescue teams resumed search operations on Saturday after bad weather forced a temporary suspension, with Pakistan Army helicopters supporting the effort.
Pakistan said it would continue providing every possible assistance until the operation to recover the remaining bodies was completed.
Prime minister Shehbaz Sharif's adviser Rana Sanaullah said Pakistan stood "shoulder to shoulder with the people of Nepal in their grief" and that rescue efforts had continued despite difficult weather and terrain.
Nepal prime Minister Balendra Shah described the deaths as a national tragedy, saying: "Only the physical journeys of Nirmal Purja and all the other departed mountaineers have come to an end; the legacy of their courage, dedication, and contributions will forever remain alive and inspiring."
In Kathmandu, tributes poured in for Purja, with a large billboard in the city centre displaying his photograph alongside the message: "You will be remembered."
Leading figures in the climbing community also paid tribute. Nepal Mountaineering Association vice president Ishwori Poudel called his death "a big loss for not just Nepal but the entire mountaineering community", while Italian mountaineering pioneer Reinhold Messner said Purja had chosen "his own path with courage and passion".
Purja served for 16 years in the British military, including six years with the Brigade of Gurkhas and 10 years with UK Special Forces. He was appointed an MBE in 2018.
He became one of the most recognised names in mountaineering after climbing all 14 peaks above 8,000 metres in six months and six days in 2019, breaking the previous record by several years. His achievements also helped bring greater international recognition to Nepali climbers and Sherpas.
The Broad Peak expedition was his final attempt to complete all 14 of the world's highest mountains for a second time.
(with inputs from agencies)
